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Issue 183 Newsletter Apr 2011 


Contents: 

• Editorial: To Despair, or not? 

• New Members 

• AGM & Simon Cairns' Lecture 

• Ipswich Tourist Guide 

• Town & Wolsey Lectures 

• Planning News and Comment 

• Transport fit for 21st Century 

• Transition Ipswich 

• Some Shorts 

• Waterfront Developments 

• Ipswich Maritime Trust 

• Traffic Movement Improvements? 

• Return of the Prefab? 

• A Pleasant Surprise 

• The Grand Old Duke of York 

• Street Clutter Initiative 

• More Shorts 

• Do You Trust Science? 

• Visitor Attractions 

• Letters to the Editor 

• Four Times Better? 

• River Gipping Trust 

• Saving the Walk 

• Historic Lettering 

• St Matthew's Baths 

• Remember December? 

• The Mayor's Parlour 

• Peter Bruff, Great Engineer 


Editorial: To Despair, or not?

Ipswich's problems are small compared with the contagious revolutions in the Middle East and the 

destructive earthquakes in Japan and in Christchurch, New Zealand - a city probably visited by a 

good many members of our Society. But problems here at home are not negligible, with the 

financial and political threats to many publicly funded services which we have hitherto taken for 

granted in a civilised town. 


The possible closure of some branch libraries and the loss of funding for school crossing patrols 

have hit the headlines in the local press. Whatever (one's political opinions, isn't it galling to know 

that just one Big Banker's annual bonus would easily coyer a year's funding of these community 

facilities? And we all know there will be worse to come. 


On a happier note - at least for the time being - the town centre is reasonably vibrant. There are 

fewer empty shops in Ipswich than is the case nationally on average. Vacancies are 11% in Ipswich 

and nationally 14.5% (even in a place like Watford it is 20%). It is helpful to have this sense of 

proportion and so avoid the pessimism or hyper-criticism which can contribute to a self fulfilling 

prophecy of doom. Town centres as we know them will be under new and increasing pressures - not 

least from internet shopping. But let us support what we've got now! Who wants to live in a town 

where the centre has little more than mobile phone outlets, coffee shops and empty premises? 


Perhaps we could take heart from a few more positives, mentioned here at random and some of 

which are referred to in this Newsletter - IBC's retention of Ipswich Buses and willingness to 

subsidise a few bus services abandoned by the County Council: better trains on the Bury and 

Cambridge route; attractive new uses of the Art School in High Street; substantial investment to 

come in traffic management in Ipswich: the nourishing Dance East and Ipswich Film Theatre. There 

is also an ambitious new scheme being discussed by IBC and Ipswich Central to develop a new 

'Merchant Quarter' of mixed uses and housing, linking the town centre and the Waterfront; this 

would clearly involve consultation, and a lot of time and money! But the alternative to such vision 

and energy is decline. However if nothing in that preceding list pleases you, don't forget what 

should always inspire us all- nature has provided us with one of the finest settings for a town in the 

whole of the UK! 


I hope you will find plenty of things to read in this issue - articles light and weighty; subjects local 

and national; topics of the past, the present and the future. Please let me have a good variety of 

material for the next Newsletter by 20 May. 

Neil Salmon 


AGM & Simon Cairns' Lecture

University Campus Suffolk, Ground Floor Lecture Room 

Wednesday, 20 April, 7.30 pm 


Two years ago we held our AGM in this main university building on the Waterfront. That proved to 

be a popular venue; for many members it was their first visit to this architecturally striking new 

building. We are pleased that UCS is to welcome us again to its headquarters - not to be confused 

with the new James Hehir university building further along the dock. 


After the usual fairly brief business meeting we shall be able to hear a talk by Simon Cairns, 

Director of the Suffolk Preservation Society. Coming from a planning background, he will have 

much to say about the role of SPS and how its work relates to ours in The Ipswich Society. After Mr 

Cairns' talk there will be opportunities to chat and to enjoy some wine, soft drinks and nibbles. 

Members of your Executive Committee will be pleased to greet you. 


Ipswich Tourist Guide

This year's guide book, simply headed 'Ipswich Suffolk 2011', is available from the TIC in St 

Stephen's Church. Members of this Society aren't tourists but you may learn a number of valuable 

things about our town nevertheless. Its 'Top Ten' subjects are The Waterfront, 'Discover Creative 

Arts' , Townscapes, 'Unique Shopping Experience' (i.e.independent retailers). Christchurch 

Mansion, Ipswich Museum, 'Tastes of the Town', 'Festival Fever', ‘Take in a Show', and 'On the 

River'. It's a colourful publication in a convenient A5 format. 


Town & Wolsey lectures

The Ipswich Arts Association's 12th series of lunchtime lectures will be held in Museum Street 

Methodist Church from 1.00 pm to 1.50 pm. The remaining lectures are:

12 May, ‘Made in Ipswich', a survey of manufacturing industries in Ipswich, by Brian Dyes.

14 July, 'Films Made in Suffolk', illustrated with some film clips, by Professor Chris Green.

8 September, 'George Ewart Evans', the writer on rural crafts and traditions, by Anne Parry.

10 November, 'History of Speedway in Ipswich' by Chris Louis and Peter Thorpe. 


Wolsey Lecture 2011- 'Henry VIII: The Wolsey Years'

This lecture will be given by Diarmaid MacCulloch, FBA, Professor of the History of the Church in 

the University of Oxford, on Wednesday, 6 April, 7.00 pm. in the Great School at Ipswich School, 

entrance from Ivry Street. Entrance £5.00 at the door; students free. 


The lecture is given under the auspices of UCS and Suffolk New College. 


Planning News

The total number of planning applications submitted to the Borough Council each year has 

fluctuated considerably as can be seen in these figures: 

In 2002 there were 1301 applications, followed by 2003, 1324/ in 2004, 1165/ in 2005, 1120/ in 

2006, 1193/ in 2007, 1134/ in 2008, 985/ in 2009, 846/ in 2010, 1038. 


The figures show that there has been some recovery in numbers but they do not reveal the much 

more disproportionate fall in major applications which were such a feature before 2008. Further, 

they don't show up the sites which have planning permission but never a sod turned! 


Nos 7 to 11 Great Whip Street. This is the biggest recent application. It is the third proposal for 

the redevelopment of the site facing Stoke Quay (New Cut West). Permission has been granted for 

residential use (25 houses, 280 flats and 79 extra-care beds). Originally 35% 'affordable', this has 

been negotiated down to 25% because of the agreed independent view of the marginal viability of 

the scheme. There will be undercroft parking and 8 retail outlets facing the docks (flood plain 

considerations). The design is of four separate blocks rising from the south to the northern end with 

a 13 storey tower. There are a lot of good things about the external design-deep fenestration, 

interesting use of colours, lots of balconies, etc. But it is a bit big and will over-power Stoke and its 

Conservation Area considerably. 

V A Marriott's Builders' site, Handford Road. Permission has been granted for a not dependent 

care home. There have been some improvements in the Alderman Canal aspect. Otherwise the 

design is perhaps a bit better than usual. Some members felt that the old red brick pub should be 

kept. However I spoke to many who felt it was not worth conserving - it's not a Conservation Area 

nor on any list. 

Electric House. The new owner has commissioned plans for part-demolition of the existing 

building retaining the former electricity showroom façade, and erecting a framed 3 storey building 

with basement and roof terrace for retail, financial and professional services, restaurants and cafes. 

Each elevation will include display windows. Permission has been granted subject to negotiation of 

details and the Section 106 contribution (£20,000) to Tower Ramparts bus station. 

Tacket Street car park. NCP proposed an 8 bay car wash at the entrance. We have, with the 

Conservation Advisory Panel, objected to a similar application for a nearby car park on 

Conservation Area grounds. The application was refused by IBC 

Commercial Road car park - the Society is conducting an oversight of car park operators who are 

ignoring their planning conditions by offering cheap all-day parking which encourages car 

commuters. 

94-96 Norwich Road. A fresh application to convert these two shops to houses has been made. The 

Society does not think the developer has made sufficient effort to improve the shop units so that 

users have not come forward. This road should be maintained as a vibrant multi cultural shopping 

street. The previous reasons for refusal remain valid in our view. 

2 Constitution Hill. The original plans have been considerably modified. The house will be 2½ 

storeys high and will clearly be more visible than the current structure. 

Tesco, Grafton Way. Agreement on Section 106 has now been reached and planning approval 

granted. The consent runs to 10 pages and includes these interesting points. 

Development cannot start until "the details of public realm design of the Bridge Street/ St Peter's 

Street/ Greyfriars Road/ Grafton Way junction are agreed by the Highway Authority (i.e. SCC) and 

IBC." Note that this is not open to public consultation nor does it consider the effect it will have on 

other junctions - and money is not mentioned! 

"The operational management plan shall include car park management. ... and paid public short stay 

use of the car park ... " 

"The net retail trading area shall not exceed 7282m2. No more than 2913m2 shall be used for the 

sale of comparison goods items"- i.e. non-food items. 

John Lewis and Waitrose. The John Lewis Partnership's agents have made a pre-application 

presentation about their current views on Ipswich. They propose two stores on the old Crane's site 

(photo below) in Nacton Road: one a large Waitrose food store and the other a John Lewis At Home 

store. These types of JL stores are smaller and do not have clothes but do have a range of electricals 

and furnishings, as well as computer terminals where the full range can be easily browsed and 

ordered for next day collection and delivery. They are sited to be near trunk routes and would 

suggest fewer trips to Bluewater and other JL stores. The Society is making no response until we 

see the Planning Application. 

John Lewis Partnership is also negotiating with IBC for the insertion of a Waitrose Express into part 

of the Corn Exchange, utilising Gatsby's and part of the Robert Cross Hall. There have been no 

official announcements by the beginning of March. 

Charging for informal advice from planning officers. It has been agreed by the Planning and 

Development Committee and the Executive Committee of IBC that for a trial period of twelve 

months a fee of 10% of the application fee should be charged for pre-application informal advice. 

Consultation took place with seventeen of last year's largest agents who agreed, as they will merely 

pass the fee on to their client. It will increase IBC's income by about £20,000 per annum. It will not 

apply to householder applications. The Society hopes it will not reduce the amount of pre-

application consultation. 


We shall be commenting on three planning briefs - Ravenswood, Yarmouth Road, Colchester Road 

Fire Station. We have also agreed to speak at the Inquiry into Local Development Frameworks. 


Stop Press: On 7 March the Planning Inspectorate told us they have confirmed the Orders for 

Rights of Way along the Waterfront and from Dock Street along New Cut West to Griffin Wharf, 

but refused to confirm the Order for a Right of Way from Foundry Lane along New Cut East across 

the lock to Ship Launch Road. This route across the Island was the one the objectors were keenest 

to see confirmed: the Society and the Ipswich Maritime Trust are most disappointed. The Inspector's 

reasons were embedded in complex legal issues but he concludes that the access which we showed 

to have been established was permissive by the owners rather than as of right. The only way 

forward would be by Judicial Review which is difficult and expensive. I will give a further report in 

the next Newsletter. 

Mike Cook 


70 Fore Street - alterations and extension to create a micro-brewery at Isaacs. 

The Society is excited by the concept of creating a micro-brewery (visitor attraction) on the 

Waterfront. We welcome the conversion of the former Lloyds Bank building (photo below) into 

what could become an outstanding and iconic building amongst the merchants' houses of Fore 

Street. And here we need to be careful. Fore Street (the fore-most street in Ipswich) retains, despite 

many unfortunate demolitions, very many fine old buildings. Number 70 is not amongst them; it 

offers no architectural merit and does little to improve the street scene. 


It is because of the presence of the numerous Listed buildings that this conversion needs to work 

and work well. Attention to detail, understanding of the architectural and construction requirements 

and a flair for distinctiveness are essential requirements of the design team. 


For example a clear decision should be taken on the appearance of the finished building and the 

style ... and we believe the current designer is thinking towards one with a vertical emphasis. If this 

is the intention we consider that well executed. It could sit comfortably alongside the merchant's 

house adjacent providing that the vertical lines are prominent, notably in the faceted glass wall and 

the two storey window fronting Fore Street. (This is not the case in the current proposals.) 


The proposed curved 'brewhouse' that follows the line of Salthouse Street is an inspiration and will 

become a leading feature of the building. As such it needs architectural quality design and 

detailing ... The view down Fore Street (a major walking route to the Waterfront and University) 

will be dominated by the front elevation of the proposed extension. In our opinion this has the 

potential to make a major contribution (and improvement) to this street scene - but only if the 

balance between glass wall and roof is correct, and only if the contractor understands the 

significance of creating an iconic building on this prominent corner and only if the colour and 

patina of the materials is in harmony .... 

John Norman 


Ipswich - Transport Fit for the 21st Century

The Department for Transport has given the green light to a raft of improvements in our two 

councils' plans. The thinking has been to increase the use of public transport, cycling and walking. 

There will be no new roads, only better signage and information on car park availability. A large 

amount of money will be spent on integrating all the traffic signals in the town centre and building a 

traffic control centre which will be manned full-time to smooth and speed traffic flow. 


To enhance the bus use experience, improvements to the two bus stations will be carried out (more 

bus stands, pedestrian crossings and less ingress for other traffic). The bus loop will be moved 

eastwards from Upper Brook Street/ N Northgate Street to Upper Orwell Street; and a second 

circular bus route is planned (railway station - Princes Street - Giles Circus - Old Cattle Market - 

Suffolk New College - University Campus Suffolk - Stoke Bridge - railway station). A Real Time 

Passenger Information (RTPI) system will be installed; information panels tell users what buses go 

from where and when the next is coming. 


For pedestrians a comprehensive and sophisticated location and sign posting scheme with 

interactive information screens as well as more mundane finger-posting will encourage visitors to 

explore the whole town and move from one part to another on foot or cycle rather than car. There 

will be many other more minor improvements particularly to bus stops and cycle lanes. Members 

with a taste for techno-governmental documents should read the 470 page document which is 

available at:  

www.suffolk.gov.uk/TransportAndStreets/Policies/IpswichTrnsportFitForThe21stCentury.htm  

Mike Cook 


Transition Ipswich

You don't need a science degree to be concerned about the future, and there is a grass-roots 

movement whose intent is to increase community resilience to a range of anticipated shocks 

including climate change, peak oil, and increasing scarcity of other essential resources including 

food and water. The movement is called 'Transition Towns', and there is a local group called 

'Transition Ipswich', which recently ran a two-day training course sponsored by the Suffolk Climate 


Change Partnership. I was invited to attend on behalf of the Society by a colleague in the Borough 

Council's Environment Panel. Re-building community, re-discovering skills and re-localising 

supply are critical aims, alongside a managed decline in the consumption of fossil fuels and other 

limited natural resources. 


The first day was concerned with "the outer world", presenting material on climate change and peak 

oil, the need for sustainability in other forms of natural resource such as water, food (particularly 

unmanaged fish stocks), minerals, oil and gas, land, soil and so on. Our present "industrial growth" 

model is based on a one-way flow of resources through consumption to waste at an exponentially 

increasing rate. When these resources are exhausted, how will future generations provide for 

themselves? Hence the need for sustainability, a radically different approach which follows natural 

cycles - starting with resources, through to consumption and back to resources, i.e. based on 

managing finite resources which can (and must) be renewed. 


The second day covered "the inner world", considering how we have come to be in this situation, 

why the industrial growth model is so powerful, and what is our personal motivation for engaging 

instead with the transition model. Why are we so reluctant to recognise the impending catastrophes? 

Perhaps because our life-style based on cheap energy and consumerism is so compellingly brilliant? 

Why do we postpone any corrective action until the very last minute when serious failures begin to 

occur? Might these include the failure of markets and the global credit crunch, the increasingly 

hazardous exploitation of under-sea oil resources soon to be extended to the Arctic, the insecure 

supply of energy and other resources, increasingly wayward global weather patterns creating 

regional disasters, associated shortages of food and water, and ultimately mass migration from the 

expanding desert regions of the world? 


Is this the world which we want to bequeath to future generations? 


If not, and if you or other family members value your stake in the future, then try Transition 

Ipswich, which prefers an emphasis on family, community, celebration and fun. It is already 

actively involved in local projects such as bulk-buying solar PV units, the Maidenhall Community 

Orchard, the Oak Tree Community Supported Agriculture scheme and forest garden, and a Resilient 

Livelihoods social enterprise theme, soon to be augmented by a new Education theme. They would 

like to attract enthusiastic new participants to provide ideas, time and energy for initiatives to 

increase local resilience in Ipswich. If this sounds like the Big Society and the Localism agenda, 

that is almost certainly coincidental, but there may be benefits from synergy with current political 

thinking. 


The website can be found at: http://www.transitionipswich.org.uk. And if you don't find out what 

you are looking for, maybe it is you who is missing! 

Mike Brain 


Some Shorts

'Decent Homes' was the programme to modernise all 8000+ Ipswich council houses. It's good this 

has been completed under successive Borough Councils. The next step is for future house 

improvements to a higher' Ipswich Standard' to be completed in 2015. 


Good luck to Holywells Park in its first application for a national Green Flag award in June. The 

criteria are effective use of green space, good facilities and safety and security measures. The 

Friends of HP are hosting events to celebrate the park's 75th anniversary this year. 

Ipswich Maritime Festival will take place on 20 and 21 August, organised by IBC, Waterfront 

Action, Ipswich Maritime Trust and Associated British Ports. It will feature music, dancing, history, 

stalls and fireworks. 

Tesco Extra in Grafton Way beside the river will be started soon. The controversy is now a thing of 

the past. But the company should see that the 129 flats are built as soon as possible and not be 

deferred while the shop flourishes. 

Tennis in Ipswich should benefit from a grant from the Lawn Tennis Association to re-build the 

courts in Christchurch Park. Elena Baltacha, UK's No 1 woman player, Ipswich-based and daughter 

of an ex - ITFC footballer, has promised to help with some coaching. 

The Wolsey statue at Curson Plain (corner of St Peter's Street and Silent Street) should be unveiled 

on 29 June. It will emphasise Wolsey's enlightened attitude to teaching. His fall from power led to 

the dissolution of his great school which was being created nearby. 

Australian opening batsman Shane Watson made a brilliant century in a one day game against 

England in January but admitted that some of the time he was more worried about Ipswich. Can you 

deduce why? 


Waterfront Developments

I feel I should comment on the article that appeared in the EADT and the Evening Star in mid-

February where Mike Cook of this Society was quoted suggesting the completion of Waterfront 

developments may take another ten to fifteen years. 


Development on Ipswich Waterfront has come to a standstill and the shell of a partially completed 

tower block stands forlorn. Elsewhere buildings appear finished but only from the outside; flats 

within are awaiting fit-out, services and residents. So why has everything stopped? "It's the 

economy, stupid." Well yes, but you may not realise that the developments at Regatta Quay and at 

Cranfield's Mill are owned by the lrish banks (or what's left of them). Irish banks were also the 

financial muscle behind other local developments including Broadmeadow (on the site of the 

Ipswich sugar beet factory) and SnOasis at Great Blakenham. 


The situation could be worse, not necessarily in terms of time but in the scale of the problem the 

developers (now in administration) have left. There is discussion in the construction industry about 

the deterioration of the skeleton that stands above Albion Quay (Regatta Quay) and this concern is 

somewhat justified. The reinforced concrete floors of this building are designed as internal 

elements, not to withstand the ravages of the weather and will deteriorate over time unless protected 

by external walls and floor screeds. Any developer buying the shell off the receivers will need to 

have the structural stability checked and it is unlikely engineers will put their reputations on the line 

and suggest it is safe, so demolition is the most likely option. 


The 23-storey tower block above Dance East is also empty but has the advantage of being clad and 

therefore watertight. Attempts are being made to market the flats that have been fitted out (the 11, 

13 and 17 storey blocks fronting Foundry Lane) at a somewhat more realistic price than was the 

case in late 2007. However the Victorian buildings are left empty and dejected and it will be a long 

time before the estimate value of the completed accommodation matches the cost of renovation. 


The East of England Development Agency had a big part to play in ensuring the former mill moved 

from redundancy to the scheme we see today. One of the conditions was that the renovation and 

new building of the whole complex had to be completed within five years. Unfortunately with the 

original developer no longer in existence it is impossible to invoke the clause, and with the demise 

of EEDA there is no organisation left to do it. 


Things will change and speculators are already trying to guess when. 

John Norman, Vice-Chairman 


Ipswich Maritime Trust

The Trust's 'window museum' on the Waterfront has featured in the International Congress of 

Maritime Museums Newsletter which includes a photograph of it. It can be found at 

www.icmmonline.org/pages Also included in that Newsletter is Des Pawson's Museum of Knots 

and Sailors' Ropework, at 501 Wherstead Road, Ipswich, which is open to visitors by appointment. 

[Editor: it is good to know that quite small but unique museums can be accorded international 

recognition; and in the case of the former, we should take heart that both Dance East and the 

'window museum' are alive and well at The Mill.] 


Traffic Improvements

With reference to the request for more input for the Newsletter from members, I thought I would 

add my "twopennorth" regarding the traffic chaos on routes into the town centre. The item from the 

Vice-Chairman in the October 20 I 0 issue takes a positive attitude towards the Duke Street re-

organisation, but this scheme, and others, continues to overcome problems in isolation without 

endeavouring to cure the overall problem. 

The Duke Street 'improvements' have caused problems in St Helen's Street, as anticipated by many 

readers of the local press. On a recent journey into town on the Martlesham Park & Ride we entered 

the gridlock in Warwick Road - this was not a peak time journey but 1.30 on a Monday afternoon! 

Also on more than one occasion I have got off a Route 66 service at the same place and walked into 

town without seeing the bus again. This has been aggravated by the closure of Rope Walk and I am 

surprised that the residents of St Helen's Street have not complained about the increase in traffic 

fumes. 


What is needed is a drastic overhaul of the whole idea, to get a system which would last for a 

number of years. 


Some twenty-five years ago when there was a request for the public to have an input into the traffic 

problems, I put forward a suggestion which still, I think, has some merit. This would be for 


Woodbridge Road up to Cauldwell Hall Road to be one-way out of town, with Spring Road being 

the inward route, also one-way. There should be an 'inner ring' - Upper Orwell Street, Tacket Street, 

Museum Street, Crown Street, etc being one-way in a clockwise direction with no traffic within the 

circuit apart from car park access, deliveries and disabled. This route could have a continuous mini - 

bus service with stops at appropriate places and with a nominal fare tariff. This would remove the 

traffic from Upper Brook Street etc to the benefit of shoppers. 


There might be a similar scheme on the western side of town, but a less expensive option could be 

achieved by making most of Norwich Road a three-lane carriageway with two lanes used for 

incoming traffic in the morning peak period and one lane transferable to accommodate the evening 

peak time. (This has been achieved on a bottleneck in Vancouver.) 


The £25million proposal to improve Princes Street would be better used in providing another river 

crossing which would benefit the Duke Street area, and of course we need a Northern by-pass to 

eradicate the problems arising from any closure of the Orwell Bridge. 


Well there you have it, my "two pennies worth". I wonder if I will get any change! 

Ken Brock 


Return of the Prefab?

An independent report has identified the development of new style prefabricated houses with 

"green" credentials as a potential major contribution to Britain's chronic housing shortage. But it is 

said that prefabs, which were built and erected in large numbers to solve the post-war housing 

crisis, got a bad name for shoddy design and poor construction. 


Half a century on, the many Ipswich prefabs in Sidegate Lane West and Humber Doucy Lane look 

as if they are still doing well! Food for thought here? 


A Pleasant Surprise

On taking a casual look at a new booklet that had suddenly appeared with the puzzling title of 

'artathon' and an even more baffling cover I was delighted to find that it was in fact a guide to 

public sculpture and works of art in Ipswich. Although it is essentially very good - useful 

descriptions, attractive illustrations and helpful maps - I have a few reservations. 


I'm puzzled by the omissions. Just because the statuary on the Town Hall and the old Post Office are 

out of reach is no reason to ignore them - they were after all intended to be viewed from ground 

level. Bernard Reynolds' 'Pylons' in front of the former Civic College are still in place and will no 

doubt soon have a better setting. The pleasant little mural at Sainsbury's in Dogs Head Street has 

been damaged but its recognition might spur them to restore it. The carved tree trunk in 

Christchurch Park is one of three pieces, near together, so why ignore the other two? 


Why also examples mostly limited to outdoors when others have good public access? After all, the 

ones in the parks have restricted access. It seems a shame to ignore Ceres in the Town Hall who is 

much more easily viewed than are the dancers at the hospital. And what about Christchurch 

Mansion? Does sculpture not count if it's in a museum? Some fairly 'Foundation Art Course' glass at 

the Crown Court is lauded but the fine windows in the old library are scorned. 


Are war memorials too holy? Even if our cenotaph evokes too-recent memories, surely the Boer 

War memorial is acceptable as a work of art and it would of course be viewed with appropriate 

solemnity. Then there are the carved medieval corner-posts .... but enough, enough! 


It is also a pity that pale yellow was used for one of the routes as it's almost invisible on the pages 

and a stronger colour could easily have been substituted. 


My conclusion: a commendable effort but I look forward to the second edition. 

Ken Wilson 


The Grand Old Duke of York

He Had Ten Thousand Men, in Ipswich! 


I am sure all of you are familiar with the nursery rhyme, 'The Grand Old Duke of York' and I 

suspect some of you have wondered if there was a historical event that it was based on. There has 

been great debate about this and quite a few places claim to be the location with, I suspect, an eye to 

attracting tourists. So can Ipswich join in and put forward a claim to be the location? I think it can. 


One of the best candidates for the identity of the Grand Old Duke of York is Frederick Augustus, 

the second son of George III and brother to the Prince Regent. So, did Frederick ever come to 

Ipswich? Well, yes he did on more than a few occasions. And on almost every occasion he was 

involved with the military. Hardly surprising as Ipswich was full of soldiers during the wars with 

France and Frederick was Commander in Chief of the army. Horatio Nelson had identified Suffolk 

as the most likely place the French would choose to land an invading army. As a result Ipswich was 

stuffed full of soldiers. There was also a very large army camp on the Woodbridge Road between 

the present day Barclays Bank and Heath Road Hospital. There were also other army camps further 

up the coast. Nelson must have thought this would provide a safe environment because in 1797 he 

bought a house for his wife and children and father to live in, right next to the army camp, on the 

site of what is now St John's Primary School in Victory Road. 


Now let's get back to the Duke of York. He arrived in Ipswich in November 1797 with the British 

army units which had been defeated in Holland and taken prisoner. They were allowed to return 

under a prisoner exchange agreement. They were walking down the main road to London and were 

in a very poor condition, so I doubt Frederick would have marched them up and down hills. Then in 

August 1803 Frederick stayed in Ipswich for four days visiting troops in the area. He reviewed the 

Ipswich militia on Pickers Hill (wherever that was). A possibility for the nursery rhyme but I don't 

think there would have been a thousand soldiers. But in the years to come there were several large 

reviews of troops by the Duke of York on Rushmere Heath including thousands of soldiers and 

cavalry. In 1805 eight thousand troops were present. Again a large number were reviewed in 1806 

and in 1807. 


But in September 1811 we come to an occasion that stands out as a distinct possibility. The Duke of 

York, who at this time was 48 years old, with the Prince Regent and the Dukes of Cumberland and 

Cambridge came to review about ten thousand troops on Rushmere Heath. All the cavalry, artillery 

and soldiers marched out from Ipswich up the Woodbridge Road followed by thousands of 

spectators. A great military display took place. The foot soldiers paraded and manoeuvred, the 

cavalry staged several charges and the artillery fired off their guns regularly, in a sort of mock 

battle. Afterwards the Duke and his brothers rode on horseback with the troops as they marched 

back to Ipswich along the Woodbridge Road. They then stayed for a meal at the cavalry barracks at 

St Matthew’s. 


And here we come to the nursery rhyme. Did the Duke stop off at the Duke of York pub for a swift 

half? Is that why it is called the Duke of York? And if he did I suppose all the troops would have 

had to wait for him on the flat bit of land between the Horse and Groom and the Duke of York pubs! 

Halfway up the hill, neither up nor down. Is this the origin of our present version of the nursery 

rhyme? I don't know for sure - but I like to think it might be so. 

Louis Musgrove 


Ipswich Street Clutter Initiative

We are all aware of the impact of traffic signs on the town. Many give essential information and 

direction for the safe movement of people and vehicles, but over the years more and more schemes, 

often with a single purpose - a cycle route, tourist directions, etc - are added to the existing signs. 

The accretion of clutter is not only an eyesore but results in important information being lost 

amongst the plethora of unnecessary signs. 


The Government is encouraging local authorities to review signage in their areas and remove 

unnecessary clutter. Ipswich Borough Council is ahead of the game and to date 256 signs and 65 

posts have been consigned to the scrap yard. 


If you have not noticed this initiative it is because those removed are a tiny number in comparison 

to the signs still in place. The second phase is to concentrate on the town centre and Conservation 

Areas, and the Borough is being assisted by members of the Ipswich Conservation Advisory Panel 

who have carried out area audits of sign and other street clutter, such as redundant posts, lines and 

barriers. 


The budget is limited and only two officers from the Borough are assigned to the task, but we 

applaud the initiative and look forward to a town centre free of unnecessary clutter. 

Ruth Stokes 


More Shorts

The fire station site in Colchester Road is proposed for housing in IBC's development brief. This 

residential area is surely better for housing than for a supermarket with all its traffic. 

The Cobbold Family History Trust will mount an exhibition in the Reg Driver Centre, 

Christchurch Park, featuring the Cobbolds in Ipswich and the story of Margaret Catchpole. Its 

opening on Friday, 8 April will also involve the dedication of the Society's Blue Plaque 

commemorating Felix Thornley Cobbold (1841-1909), the town's greatest benefactor. 

Three large wind turbines may be erected in the Belstead area. First mooted a few years ago, they 

are now the subject of consultations by IBC with residents and a renewable energy developer. It is 

to be hoped that the problems can be overcome. 

Giles Circus, the town's newly created public space, is being kept clean, though it's a constant 

battle against gum droppers and advertising A-boards. Whether traffic should still be allowed 

through remains controversial. 

Container ships at Felixstowe docks will soon be even bigger. Maersk has commissioned 10 new 

ships to be built in Korea. Made for the China-Europe run, they will be so wide that only 

Felixstowe, Rotterdam and Bremerhaven in Europe can take them. 

'Ipswich Chord' - Network Rail will construct this new connection between the Inter-City line and 

the E Suffolk and Felixstowe lines as a double track, costing over £40m. Called the 'bacon curve' 

because it skirts the boundary of the old Harris bacon factory off Hadleigh Road, it will enable 

freight trains to/from Felixstowe to go direct to the Midlands and North. 


But Do You Trust Science?

While I thank Mr M L Chelk for his latest correspondence on "Climategate" in the January 2011 

Newsletter, his argument remains predicated upon the prima facie headline-grabbing evidence 

associated with the leaked e-mails that were hacked from the UEA site, whereas no less than four 

inquiries have since examined all the evidence, have exonerated Prof J ones of any scientific 

wrongdoing, and have resulted in improvements at the UEA in complying with the Freedom of 

Information Act. The underlying climate science remains intact and undiminished, as does Prof 

Jones's reputation as a scientist. And if Prof J ones appears suspiciously confident of the content of 

his next contribution to the IPCC, he already has five years' more climate data following what was 

presented in the 2007 Assessment Review, and the alarming trends continue. 


Incidentally, anyone who heeded the original analogy with my combination condensing boiler last 

April might now be feeling quite pleased to have had the warning and to have acted upon it, as 

thousands more were reported to have failed in the coldest UK December in over a century. Or did 

yours fail? If so, you might be kicking yourself. Whole populations of people both present and 

future might have been similarly pleased if only the world's governments had heeded the IPCC's 

warnings, and had cut greenhouse gas emissions in a timely and equitable manner, managing the 

risk of climate catastrophe rather than putting their lives in jeopardy. The prima facie cause of2010's 

extreme weather worldwide was La Nina, whose effects may well now subside until it next appears 

in a few years' time, but the rapid warming trend of recent decades continues unabated and promises 

much worse to follow. In spite of our cold winter in the UK, 2010 was the second warmest year on 

record globally, and this is entirely consistent with climate science. 


Nullum in Verba: "Don't trust my word alone or anybody else's, trust the science." Hubristically we 

may value public opinion and our democratic rights, but Nature is oblivious and takes its inevitable 

course, and people around the world are already paying the price. But am I wasting my time in 

repeating this message? Four years ago, my first article for the Newsletter contained the following: 


"Much about nature can be predicted, if it can be understood. That is what science, and hopefully 

those 'bloody scientists' at the IPCC, attempts to do. But following from this, how do we know 

anything? Who can understand the scientists? Can journalists? And are journalists to be believed? ... 

And would you trust them in preference to your own instincts?” 


These are indeed difficult questions, and Mr Chelk has shown how the issues of what we know and 

whom we can trust have not diminished over those four years. Although the UK continues to press 

for tougher EU emissions limits, the prospect of effective international action has receded even 

further in 2010, and humanity perversely continues to fiddle while the planet smoulders. Big 

Government claimed that it could not act ahead of public opinion; the Big Society remains to be 

defined, let alone conjured into existence; Big Business continues to please itself; and individuals 

are left feeling disempowered. 


Recently in The Observer newspaper, writer Margaret Atwood drew a compelling analogy with 

humanity's problems of exponential growth and depletion of resources, describing the 

multiplication of single-celled creatures in a tube containing a fixed amount of food. Each creature 

divides every minute, producing a doubling of the population until eventually the food runs out and 

they all die. She asks, "At what moment in time is the tube half-full?" Answer: "Only one minute 

before the food runs out; but they think, "We are fine. There's half a tube of food left." Whether we 

are concerned with scarcity of resources or the dangerous level of greenhouse gas emissions, we 

might have hoped that humanity would have been smarter than a tube of single-celled creatures. 

Both Mr Chelk and I have had our say. Do other readers share my concerns, or am I wasting my 

time? Either way drop me a line or write to the Editor. My subsequent articles will reflect your 

replies 

Mike Brain 


Visitor Attractions as a Means of Regeneration

Visitor Attractions, Science Centres, Galleries and Museums are designed to contribute to the 

greater good of society but are also used as catalysts for renewal. Some are designed to deliver a 

return on investment, others are not for profit but with the bigger responsibility of regeneration. The 

concept of using attractions to cause regeneration is not new, but equally not universally successful 

and those who can remember the Millennium will recall that Lottery money brought generously 

funded but often ill-conceived attempts to jump-start redevelopment. For every such attraction that 

proved to be a success at least three failed to deliver on the aspirations that were envisaged at the 

outset. 


The mistakes made seem obvious now, but expecting an attraction like the Earth Centre in 

Doncaster, which was developed in isolation from and ahead of other regeneration activity, to 

survive and thrive and bring a wave of inward investment was clearly unrealistic. The Centre for 

Popular Music in the middle of Sheffield should have stood a better chance but did not attract the 

young fans that were envisaged and is now the Students' Union building for Sheffield Hallam 

University. The National Garden Centre in Wales was in the middle of nowhere, with no resident 

population to provide the daily footfall. But so is the Eden Centre and somehow Tom Smit got it 

right. 


The National Waterfront Museum in Swansea is possibly one of the best examples in the UK of a 

holistic approach. The Museum was created as part of the grand vision to connect the city to its 

waterfront, giving new life to old buildings, creating desirable public spaces, revitalising retail and 

housing, and developing new physical links with the city centre. Within this whole package the 

Museum's role was to ensure that the area became and remained a desirable place to live, work, visit 

and enjoy, both during daylight hours and into the evening. It needed to add footfall to the night 

time economy, the type of users that might not necessarily be on the waterfront after dark. 


It is impossible to be specific about how much Swansea's success is down to the Museum or to 

speculate about the precise impact it had on private investment. Without doubt however its 

contribution has been widely recognised and without the Museum the waterfront would have been a 

poorer place - both literally and metaphorically. One key factor in the success was the partnership 

scheme of funding which was agreed between the National Museum of Wales, the City and County 

Councils - a stable platform from the day the Museum opened. Swansea Council sees the 

Waterfront Museum as an important catalyst in the regeneration of the city and for numerous 

projects in the immediate environs. 


A further scheme that really did kick-start multi-million pound investments back in 2000 was the 

Lowry Centre on Salford Quays, immediately followed by the Imperial War Museum North, Daniel 

Liebeskind's masterpiece of dark art. However it is the arrival of the BBC into Media City that has 

really secured Salford as a classic example of urban regeneration. For it is here on the banks of the 

former Ship Canal that residential tower blocks are occupied and commanding a premium. 

If they can make it work in Manchester and South Wales, what is possible in Ipswich?  

Read part two of this article in the July Newsletter. 

John Norman 


Letters to the Editor

Sad Loss of the Bury Road Park and Ride 

From Ronald and Anita Harvey (Stowmarket) 

We are very disappointed about the Bury Road Park & Ride site closing as we had used it since it 

first opened when we paid to park and got on a bus - so much better to get into town and out. If we 

travel to the Copdock site to get a P&R bus into Ipswich it will take us at least an extra half an hour 

to get into town. 


The younger generation are the ones who need it most to get to work, etc. How nice it would be to 

see the Bury Road Park & Ride opened again - it's a much better car park! We always enjoy our 

shopping trips to town since we retired. 


Debatable style of Architecture 

From Stephen Anderson 

I wanted to support Bob Allen's comment about 53-55 Westerfield Road that won a Commendation 

at the Society's 2010 Awards ceremony. When he used the term "debatable use of pastiche 

Edwardian style" I think he was understating the case against them. To me, they represent an 

approach to design which only design conservatives such as the Prince of Wales would like to see 

more of-retro, pastiche, quasi, neo .... but not contemporary. The 1950s house they replaced had 

greater integrity than this pair of semis which (and I'll admit my architectural history knowledge is 

insufficient here to be certain) seem to follow a largely unmissed Edwardian style which itself had 

elements of neo- Tudor detailing. 


Run-down Look of Some Streets 

From James Empson 

I was 32 when I chose Ipswich to start my business, Anglia Cameras. Ipswich was then a very 

pleasant town with a Tuesday cattle market and tweed clad farmers calling in to see me. One 

brought fresh eggs each week at 2/6 per dozen! How very English. How this has changed with the 

loss of many quality retailers from the town centre over the years …. 


I closed the business in March 2008 after 44 years of successful trading - and sold the property three 

months later. How sad to see the very run-down look of St Matthew's Street and Norwich Road 

today, a main thoroughfare into the town. My heart sinks when I see my old property in St 

Matthew's Street which I tried to keep spick and span when I owned it, but of course, having sold 

the freehold, I no longer have jurisdiction as to how it looks. For this, I apologise to the people of 

Ipswich. 


A town, village or hamlet is more than bricks and mortar; paintwork colours and shades also attend 

this effect. Whilst I applaud the efforts of the Society Elders, we need to press the Town Council to 

clean up more than just the streets - (though their recent recognition is to be applauded!). 


Imogen Stubbs at the Society's Dinner 

From Dick Tuckey 

Imogen may not be an "Ipswichian" - but the Wolsey gave her her first job straight from RADA and 

she - touchingly - always acknowledges this in interviews …. 


[Editor: I had praised Imogen Stubbs for persevering in her three-hour delayed and snow-bound 

journey to join us and her husband Sir Trevor Nunn at the dinner, even though she "isn't an 

Ipswichian”! 

Dick Tuckey, as many will fondly remember, was Artistic Director of the Wolsey Theatre.] 


Four Times Better

Tired of living in a cold house and spurred on by the prospect of' ‘Peak Oil' and the likelihood of 

considerably higher energy bills in future years, I decided to take a look at how my house performs 

thermally. It is a typical two bedroom brick built end of terrace Victorian house dating from 1893, 

with single glazing and solid 9" brick walls. 


Having already upgraded the loft insulation and with no cavity to even consider filling, it might be 

thought that double glazing was the obvious answer. Indeed my calculations showed that double 

glazing the 15m² of windows in the house (reducing the U-value from 5.6 to 2.8W/°C /m²) would 

reduce the heat loss of that element of the building from 84W/ºC to 42W/°C, a reduction of42W/°C. 

U-value is a measure of how much heat energy a particular form of construction will transmit, and 

in the metric system it is expressed in W/°C /m². It thus measures how much energy a square metre 

of the construction will lose when subjected to a degree difference in temperature across it.  


Multiplying up by both the actual area concerned and the expected temperature difference tells you 

how much energy that part of the construction is likely to lose. Grossing up the areas and adding 

together the different elements of my house, the overall heat loss is about 400W/°C, this figure 

representing the amount of power in Watts needed to maintain the temperature 1°C higher than the 

temperature outside. Thus on a cold winter's day at -2° outside, if I want to maintain 18° inside, I 

will need 8,000 Watts (8kW) burning! 


The possible saving of 42W/°C with double glazing thus represents 10% of my total energy costs, 

to be weighed up against a conservative estimate of around £4,000 to double glaze my eight 

windows to achieve that. If my energy costs were £1,000 per annum, it would take me 40 years to 

achieve payback! 


Unconvinced of the economic case, I decided to take a closer look at the brickwork. Because it is an 

end terrace house, there is a total of some 95m² of 9" brickwork with U-value of 2.45W/°C /m² 

actively losing heat to the environment. An upgrade using external insulation could improve this U-

value to 0.34W/°C /m². One area where this could easily be applied is the 40m² of blank gable end 

along the side of the house, where there are no windows, pipes or vents in the way. Just upgrading 

this section of the brickwork would reduce the heat loss on this element of the building from 98W/

°C to 14W/°C, a reduction of 84W/°C. This represents a 20% possible saving in total energy costs, 

twice that of the double glazing option. Lf this can be achieved for less than £2,000 then this option 

of a 'gable warmer' is four times more cost effective than double glazing and will have a realistic 10 

year payback period. 


This all seemed good on paper, so I decided to proceed with a pilot project to construct such a gable 

warmer, which I will present in the next issue. 

Patrick Taylor, Conservation Architect 


River Gipping Trust

Lewis Tyler is Secretary of the recently established River Gipping Trust which has taken on the 

work of re-establishing the 18th century Ipswich to Stowmarket Navigation. In his lecture on 9 

February, we were given a comprehensive survey of its background and of the current situation. 

The Inland Waterways Association's Ipswich branch had taken on a very positive role over the many 

years, but it was felt that a Trust with the specific aim of restoration of the historic Gipping 

Navigation would have a better chance of success in attracting potential funders. Most of the 

members of the new River Gipping Trust are also members of the local branch of the national 

Inland Waterways Association. In Ipswich we already have the River Action Group established 

some 10-15 years ago, of which The Ipswich Society is an active member. Its emphasis has been 

more on improving access to, and usage of, the river and its towpath, as well as the creation of an 

improved cycle route. It also operates only as far as Sproughton. 


Lewis reminded us that, from the 16th century, the river had been navigable for certain craft as far 

as Stowmarket and via the River Rattlesden a little further westwards. With industry developing in 

Ipswich towards the end of the 18th century, a start had been made towards creating a proper 

navigation with a series of locks. John Rennie had supervised the design of the original locks and 

the initial barges were horse-drawn. The newly arrived railways rather interrupted progress, but 

steam barges replaced horses in the 19th century and traffic between Ipswich and the Packard 

fertiliser works at Bramford continued until the 1930s, with actual closure of the navigation in 

1932. 


The River Gipping Trust, like the IWA before it, is concentrating its efforts on the restoration of 

locks in the Needham Market section of the river where sufficient remains of the original structures 

have survived. Progress is inevitably slow, but several locks are now fully restored. This interesting 

talk was plentifully illustrated with photographs old and new so we could see for ourselves what has 

been achieved. 

Tom Gondris 


Saving the Walk

Bob Markham, a well known member of the Society who has carried out extensive research into the 

history of public transport in Ipswich, was the speaker in our lecture on 12 January. The subject for 

Bob's presentation was the development of new residential areas in Ipswich mainly from 1879 until 

the present day, and the introduction of public transport to serve the residents of these new areas. 

Until the fourth quarter of the 19th century the main residential areas were within a one mile radius 

of the Cornhill, although new developments were taking place in California, the area between 

Spring and Foxhall Roads. Residents made their journeys to work and leisure on foot, with the 

exception of the small minority with their own horse drawn forms of transport. 


The first public transport was introduced in 1880 in the form of horse trams, with routes from the 

Cornhill along Norwich Road to Brooks Hall Road; to Derby Road station via Spring Road and St 

John's Road; and to Ipswich railway station. 


In 1903 Ipswich Corporation opened a new electricity power station in Constantine Road which 

enabled an electric tram system to be introduced. The routes formerly operated by the horse trams 

were extended to Whitton, Bourne Bridge, Felixstowe Road (Royal Oak). Spring Road (Lattice 

Barn) and Bramford Road (Railway Bridge). In 1919 the Eastern Counties Road Car Company 

introduced a network of motor bus routes to the surrounding rural areas and also within the town to 

areas not covered by the trams, including Woodbridge Road and Hadleigh Road, where the first 

council houses were built in Allenby Road in the early 19205. 


In the mid 1920s a very large development of local authority housing took place in the east between 

the Felixstowe and Nacton Roads. This was soon followed by a large development in the nearby 

Gainsborough area. In 1926 the electric trams were replaced by trolley buses, which enabled a 

network of routes to be introduced to serve these new residential areas in the east of the town and 

also to serve Foxhall and London Road areas, and Bramford Road beyond the railway bridge. In 

1945 another large local authority housing development was commenced at Rushmere Hall. A new 

trolley bus route was introduced via Sidegate Lane. 


In 1948 the Ipswich Corporation electricity undertaking was nationalised which resulted in a large 

increase in the cost of the power for the trolley buses and also the cost of installing the 

infrastructure of new routes. This resulted in the decision to replace trolley buses by motor buses. 

The first new motor bus route was opened along Norwich Road in 1950 to serve the new 

Whitehouse estate. Another council estate was developed at Maidenhall in the early 1950s, followed 

by a private housing development in the adjoining Stoke Park. A bus service was introduced via 

Wherstead Road to serve these areas. 


During the 1950s and 1960s very large local authority housing developments took place at Chantry 

between Belstead and London Roads, so bus services were introduced to serve these new residents. 

In the north west of the town the first local authority housing development took place in the late 

1930s. This was followed during the late 1940s until the 19705 by more developments of council 

and private housing between Norwich Road and Henley Road, so bus routes were created to serve 

these areas via Norwich Road. In the mid-1980s a network of new bus routes was introduced using 

small vehicles to serve some areas of the town not covered by the main routes. Ipswich Airport was 

closed by the Council in the early 1990s for the development of Ravenswood. A new bus service 

was introduced via Landseer Road to serve the area, thus providing links between the town centre, 

Ravenswood, Warren Heath and Ransomes Europark. 


Bob showed a fascinating selection of slides illustrating the different types of architecture of the 

housing in these newly created residential areas and also views of their local shopping areas. He 

was supported by his wife, Caroline, who was responsible for the control of the technology used to 

project his excellent material. 

Russell Nunn 


Historic Lettering

Think of a subject to explore on the Internet and there is often a surprise to be found. In this 

particular case, 'Historic Lettering' led me to a website, Ipswich Historic Lettering and to a 

fascinating collection of photographs, with explanatory historical information, of examples of old 

lettering in Ipswich. It is available to view in specific 'galleries' such as street signs, trade signs, or 

specific locations such as churches or the Wet Dock. The photographer, Borin Van Loon, a resident 

of Ipswich, has been compiling his collection for a number of years. He includes a list of street 

names and their historical derivations, and acknowledges the source as the list published in The 

Ipswich Society Newsletter of April 2004. He also draws attention to the style of our Blue Plaques. 


St Matthew's Baths

The baths hall has re-opened as The Gym Ipswich. BBC Radio Suffolk asked the Society for 

information about the history of the baths. The original building cost around £22,770 in 1924 and it 

consisted of a 75x30 ft pool with a balcony for 200 spectators and 21 slipper baths, useful for a time 

when many houses had no bathrooms. 


During the winter months a sprung maple floor would cover the pool for meetings and concerts, etc. 

It was in heavy demand after the Public Hall (on the site now occupied by Primark) burned down in 

1947. In the 1970s the Corn Exchange became the entertainment centre, so all year round 

swimming took place at St Matthew's, but after the opening of Crown Pools it was sold to 

developers and was last used as a social club. 


Remember December?

It may seem long after the event but it is interesting to know about the policy pursued by IBC in 

partnership with the County Council and the Highways Agency. IBC spreads salt on six Primary 1 

routes in the Borough when the road surface goes below 1°C. These are all A and B roads with 

more than 4,000 vehicles a day and all bus routes and access for emergency services and high 

schools. Also six Primary 2 routes (those carrying more than 2,000 vehicles a day) are treated if the 

temperature is still zero by 9 am. And 45 shopping areas and precincts and some footways are 

treated in severe and prolonged weather. 


Legal liability of householders who clear snow from pavements has caused confusion. The County 

Council's position is that "sensible self-help is to be encouraged". The Government also takes this 

view and has issued a "Snow Code" to advise people on what to do and what the position on legal 

liability is. You might find this information useful next winter - but let's hope we don't have another 

such December! 


The Mayor's Parlour

On the afternoon of 8 February, twenty members of the Society assembled in the entrance of the 

Town Hall, having been invited by the Mayor, Jane Chambers, to visit her Parlour and have a 

'behind the scenes tour'. We were greeted by Andrew Beal, the Town Sergeant. He gave us a brief 

reminder of the various buildings which have stood on this site, starting with St Mildred's Chapel in 

Saxon times. The present Town Hall dates from 1868 and is built in the Venetian style. It is now in 

the care of Colchester and Ipswich Museums Service. 


He showed us the old courtroom with its fine dome and decorative plasterwork, and remarked that 

the room is windowless - very useful in preventing prisoner escapes! We then ascended the main 

staircase, pausing to look at the marble plaque which commemorates Borough Council employees 

who died on active service during the First World War. Our next stop was the room previously used 

as the town library, where we admired the fine decoration. From there we walked along a corridor 

lined with photographs of every Mayor of Ipswich, except for Benjamin Brame in 1836, who was 

too early for photography and is represented by a watercolour. 


We were received in the Mayoress's Parlour by the Mayor. She explained that she has been elected 

by the other councillors, her role is strictly non-political; she represents the Borough during her year 

of office. We were shown various paintings of the town, gifts presented by visitors, and the Visitors' 

Book itself, signed by a couple called Elizabeth and Philip! The walls of the next room are covered 

with memorabilia and official declarations of .Freedom of the Borough.. One was awarded to Sir 

'Robert' Robson; he didn't like the name change apparently! The most recent award was to HMS 

Quorn. 


In the Mayor's Parlour we viewed the Town Seals made in 1200, when the Charter was granted, and 

putting on white cotton gloves I was able to hold them..the highlight of my visit. We also saw the 

silver gilt mace presented to the town by Charles II, still used at council meetings today. Andrew 

showed us the Mayor's official robes and headwear, which have to be worn whatever the weather 

and are incredibly heavy. 


We also heard the stories of Samuel Harvey and Arthur Frederick Saunders, both awarded the VC 

for bravery at the Battle of Loos in 1915. They returned to Ipswich, having been severely wounded. 

Samuel never fully recovered from a head wound; few people knew of the honour bestowed upon 

him and he spent the rest of his life struggling to cope. In contrast Arthur was appointed a salaried 

magistrate and became a respected figure in the town. [Editor: the Society installed a Blue Plaque 

on his former house in Cauldwell Hall Road last year] 


The group returned to the Mayoress's Parlour for refreshments and a farewell from the Mayor. It 

was a very enjoyable visit which managed to be both relaxed and informative at the same time, 

thanks to Andrew's interesting guided tour and the warm reception we were given by the Mayor. 

Thanks are also due to Caroline Markham for organising this visit. 

Evelyn Hewing 


Peter Bruff, Great Victorian Engineer

Following up my article in the October Newsletter 2009 concerning Peter Bruff, an error has been 

pointed out to me by Mr Hugh Moffat. He wrote what amounts to a biography of Bruff, 'East 

Anglia's First Railways'. In the book Mr Moffat had stated that Bruff's home near Handford Road 

was demolished soon after the death of the latter in 1900. Mr Moffat has since pointed out that 

Handford Lodge was in fact only demolished in the 1920s and was the home of Mr D H Booth after 

the death of Mrs Bruff. (Booth, as Mayor of Ipswich, had laid the foundation stone of the Corn 

Exchange on 22 October 1880.) 


I also include a photograph of Peter Bruff's grave in the Old Ipswich Cemetery. The stone looks 

amazingly clean considering its age. On the subject of age, the birth date is recorded wrongly on the 

stone as, according to the appropriate parish register in Portsmouth, he was born on 23 July 1812, 

not 1811. 


Another issue concerns the Perspex etching celebrating Bruff's building of Stoke Hill tunnel. This 

was less than impressive but was nonetheless the only memorial to Bruff existing within the area of 

the station building. It was situated above the booking windows but has now been removed or 

covered up with an advertising hoarding featuring Ipswich Town Football Club. 

I also note that one other memorial to Bruff does exist in Ipswich and that is as a road name, Bruff 

Road. This is a new road situated off Croft Street near the site of the first Ipswich station. A number 

of railway related road names now occur in the area, examples being Bromley Close, Adams Close 

and Sinclair Close. The three latter gentlemen were all Locomotive Superintendents on the Great 

Eastern Railway in the 19th century. 


I would still recommend to the Society's Committee that we consider the installation of a Blue 

Plaque in the Handford Road area or at the railway station in honour of this great Victorian engineer 

who brought the railway to Ipswich and also designed much of the underground sewer system. He 

could therefore be regarded as the Bazalgette of Ipswich as well as the Brunel. 

Merv Russen

Issue 183 April 2011

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