Issue 152 Newsletter July 2003
Contents:
• Editorial
• New Members
• Chairman's Letter
• Recent Planning Matters
• Something for all Tastes!
• Snippets (1)
• The Society's Surprise at AGM
• The Navigator and the River
• Future of Broomhill Pool
• Somerset House
• Christchurch Park Restoration
• Parks' Services Panel
• Ipswich Museums
• Not Full Steam Ahead Yet!
• Ipswich Maritime Trust
• Snippets (2)
• The Station to the Town Centre
• Christchurch Mansion Explored
• Letters to the Editor
• Licensing Bill: Our Concerns
• A New History of Ipswich School
• Another Day in Norwich
• Suffolk Photographic Survey
• Heritage Open Days
• Belton House, Grantham
• Ipswich Archaeological Trust
• Your Committee & Many Events
Editorial
This Newsletter comes to you in sunny and dry July - or cold and wet July? Writing this in early
June, I've no idea what the summer will be like but I hope you'll make some opportunities to get out
and about to see some of the many changes taking place in our town.
Exotic smells in the town
One smallish change which has rather more significance than might meet the eye is the newly
opened Caffe Nero. Yet another coffee bar, some may say! Butter Market now has Caffe Nero at
one end and Costa at the other end. The aroma of Italian-style coffee marks out this grand old street
so that even a blind person would know where he/she is.
But Caffe Nero has actually been quite adventurous. It uses the first floor above its own premises
and extends over the adjoining travel agent's shop in Upper Brook Street as well. So often rooms
over shops in the town centre are wasted spaces, even though they are presumably included in the
cost of the high rents. It's pleasing that this fine building in Upper Brook Street is being more fully
and imaginatively used. Some good workmanship has created an interesting space upstairs. The
only regrettable features were that the firm seemed so eager to start trading that external scaffolding
has gone up after they've opened, and, worse than that, their planning applications for alterations
and new signs were made a few weeks after the business opened!
This is not a rare occurrence. Companies however big and however welcome shouldn't treat the
planning processes so cavalierly. The appearances of British towns often leave much to be desired
but they'd be much worse without the planning controls so painstakingly developed over the last
30-40 years.
Possible big changes
Your Executive Committee was grateful to receive a briefing about a proposed master plan for the
future of the town centre and Waterfront. This was provided by Simon Came of Urban Initiatives,
the consultants working for the East of England Development Agency, the Borough Council and the
County Council. It seemed to us highly desirable to have available for the future an objective
assessment and vision of how the town could be developed ideally. Not all of it will actually be
achieved but it should be a valuable frame of reference to offset the usual Bnitish way of doing
things piecemeal. It should also be a stimulus.
Perhaps the main concern of the master plan is to encourage developments which knit together the
present shopping centre, the proposed Mint Quarter, the Waterfront, Cardinal Park and the so-called
Ipswich Village, making what the consultants say is "a clear, seamless and coherent town centre
without run down areas". This is a concern shared, I should think, by most members Of our Society.
A small exhibition, "Ipswich Futures" was held in Tower Ramparts Shopping Centre in early June.
Members will have their own opportunity to hear Simon Carne speaking about "The Ipswich Master
Plan" on Wednesday, 8 October - the first of our Winter Lectures.
Please send me all material for the next Newsletter by 20 August.
NEIL SALMON
16 Warrington Road, Ipswich, IPI 3QU
Chairman's Letter
Hello again,
Some of you will have heard of my accident when I fell over at the unveiling of "The Navigator"
sculpture by the river. I damaged my face and rated a few lines in the local press. I have made a
good recovery, and although I was told my nose was broken, I don't think it is apparent now the
swelling has gone down. The sculpture was commissioned by the River Action Group, which as you
know is closely linked to the Society and is indeed a daughter organisation which has done an
enormous amount of improvement to the river above Stoke Bridge, including the improved footpath
and cycle path. Its Chairman, Tom Gondris, was speaking about the sculpture when I caused my
commotion. There were some rude remarks made about the lengths I had to go to in order to get
Tom to stop speaking!
This year we held our AGM at the new venue for Winter Lectures, the Methodist Church Hall in
Museum Street. This is a very convenient venue with parking available and it can accommodate a
good sized group. We were however very surprised to be told by the caretaker as we were preparing
for the event on the evening that wine would not be allowed. There had been no mention of this
restriction previously. In the event we managed with soft drinks but it has always been a feature of
our AGM to offer a glass of wine to members. The Executive Committee has therefore decided to
hold AGMs in future at the Suffolk College, where we had such a successful Awards evening. So in
future all Winter Lectures will be held at Museum Street, and the Awards and AGM both held at the
College.
The Waterside continues to develop and takes a good deal of our time. The marina on the Island site
owned by ABP has been granted a small extension towards the lock gates making the area now very
full of expensive fibreglass. We have warned that future expansion will be objected to by the
Society. The new hotel on the site of Good's old warehouse is just about to open - the Salthouse
Harbour Hotel. It is owned and run by the people who own the Marlborough in Henley Road which
will close and become housing. The hotel is a welcome addition to the Waterfront, although we are
currently fighting with the planners about whether goods vehicles should access the site from Fore
Street or the quayside.
The Waterfront Visitors'Attraction Study is proceeding on time. An interim report indicated that the
consultants believe the scheme will be marketable and hope to produce a report which clearly
indicates the way forward, not least to include funding arrangements. They have consulted with
over 30 groups/individuals and are actively considering themes which include Anglo-Saxon origins,
the American connection, Wolsey and the Reformation, and the Maritime connection. The final
report is due in the summer and members will be made aware of its conclusions.
The Westerfield housing scheme is proceeding and many of you will have visited one of the
consultation sessions held in various locations. The Society's initial position is that given a serious
effort is being made to utilise brownfield sites wherever possible and given the Government's
insistence on massive increases in house building, then reluctantly we have to accept the
development. We are concerned at its final size and the quality of the layout/design, but also the
suitability of the present road system to cope with the considerable extra traffic such a development
would generate. We shall pursue these concems with vigour as the scheme emerges. It is also
extremely likely that we shall hold a well publicised special meeting to discuss the proposals.
At the time of writing the Suffolk Show is imminent and the weather seems set fine. The Society
once again will have a presence in the Suffolk Preservation Society marquee, ably manned by a
group of our members. This helps to make the Society known to a wider audience.
Our "routine" work continues steadily - monitoring planning applications, lobbying and influencing
policy on various bodies (including MPs) and generally ensuring that as Ipswich develops it
becomes a better place in which to live, and not a worse one.
JACK CHAPMAN
Recent Planning Matters
Here are some of our responses to planning applications submitted to the Borough Council.
Erection of side extension at 50 Westerfield Road
"The Society feels that this application should be refused on the following grounds: It is surrounded
on three sides by the Christchurch Park conservation area and whilst only partly visible from the
road it impacts adversely on Nos 52,48 and 46. It should therefore at least be referred to the
Conservation Panel. The design of this huge expansion is unsatisfactory and does not add to the
conservation area. The mass of the extension is so big as to affect the outlook from the gardens of
No 52 and more severely 48 as well as 46. Because of the slope of the land this can only be
appreciated by a site visit..." [Application approved by IBC]
Salthouse Harbour Hotel
"The Executive Committee of the Society are extremely concerned that a major change has taken
place to the application since it was granted planning permission. We are enquiring whether these
changes should have been advertised and bodies such as ourselves consulted.
"In the original consent condition, large scale plans of the access to and from Fore Street are
required and the condition allows access to all vehicles up to 7.5 tonnes. We construed this to mean
that access from Fore Street for cars and vans would be the normal route. We inspected the plans
and listened to the presentation at Conservation Panel and felt assured that the only access to the
hotel from the quay would be by pedestrians.
"A new application for signage indicates that this is not the case and that all vehicles will reach the
hotel access solely from the quayside. This is entirely contrary to the desires of many in the
community who had hoped that eventually the northern quays would have very little in the way of
vehicle movements. We look forward to hearing your views on this important change in attitude.”
80A Fore Street (Isaac Lord's): to convert former warehouse buildings into restaurant, three
shop units and meeting rooms
"This is perhaps Ipswich's most important original medieval building and thus all alterations must
be very carefully considered. It is thought that this will be the first time in 600 years that it will not
be used for warehousing or storage purposes. We feel the applicant is right to seek change of use to
a restaurant as this appears to be the only profitable business use it could be put to.
"However in doing this it is clearly paramount to preserve the external fabric and appearance. In the
attempt to do so, the internal arrangements of the dining area have lost all the great feel of a long warehouse which would have retained the sense of the original. In addition the plan provides very few diners with a view of the Wet Dock which is surely an important aspect of eating out in that location. The application was discussed at length by the Executive Committee of the Society and it felt that the architect should be asked to reconsider the whole internal arrangement.
"One further smaller point we felt inappropriate were the sloping sides to the decorative balcony
outside the first floor centre window facing Wherry Quay; indeed, it's a very simple facade and
would probably be best left unadorned altogether." [Still under consideration by IBC]
8 Bolton Lane: demolition of commercial building and erection of 4 houses and parking
"It is such a shame to waste a nice site with such a poor design. The developers must be asked to
come up with a decent architectural solution in a conservation area." [IBC refused application]
The Factory, Star Lane: use of existing car park (serving adjacent retail warehouse) as long
stay public car park
"If we are to reduce car traffic in central Ipswich then we can't permit conversion of a private car
park to a public or contract one. At most a one year permission should be granted so that the owner
will be stimulated to find a proper use for his land.”
Land adjacent British Telecom, Handford Road: erection of 76 dwellings in two-four storey
buildings...
"There are three items we would like to raise concerning this development.
1. Change of use from light industrial to residential will mean there is even less employment in
the centre of town. On the other hand houses and flats would be located within walking and
cycling distance of the centre. Further, a brownfield site development is always desirable.
2. 76 habitations will undoubtedly produce more traffic in Handford Road which is already
saturated. Perhaps this is too many for the site. Another set of traffic lights must be avoided.
3. Once again, the design of the houses is mass produced. Surely a developer as large as this
could produce better stuff. They also appear to overlook the houses on the east side of
Cullingham Road. An overall improvement would be to reduce these blocks by one storey
which would lower the site density and reduce their impact on nearby residences.”
4. The following letter was addressed to the Chief Executive of Ipswich Hospital concerning the New
block for Critical Care Medicine and Day Care:
"We are concerned that the Trust should be able to apply some aesthetic consideration to the
finished building At least you no longer have the Regional Health Board dictating what you build.
We would like to suggest that you consider consulting the Medical Architecture Research Unit at
the South Bank University who take a special interest in the relationship between form and
function, i.e. it must work for all users but it must took good.”
Light pollution of the night sky
The Council for the Preservation of Rural England is extremely concerned about light pollution.
The Society's Executive discussed the problem, as seen for instance in the huge light spill from
supermarket car parks all night. Security is important but ! It seems that improvements can be made
by merely pointing the lights downwards. We would like to know if there are any members who are
experts in this field as the Society badly needs good advice. Please contact Mike Cook, our planning
co-ordinator if you can help: tel 251498.
IBC's decisions on applications referred to in our previous Newsletter:
Extra 38 berths at Ipswich Haven Marina - approved
66 flats at 15 Christchurch Street (former Jaeger factory) - approved
Rear extension etc at Carlton Hotel, Berners Street - approved
Conversion of Marlborough Hotel and new houses - approved
Rear conservatory and external alterations at 27-29 Fore Street - refused.
Something for all Tastes!
If you haven't recently taken a walk around the Wet Dock you will be surprised to learn of the
increasing number of bars, cafes and restaurants that are now open for business. Although there are
more apartments promised than built, here is a clear sign that the Historic Waterfront is alive and
successful.
Starting on the Island, we find the Last Anchor has recently been extended and now offers a full
bistro service together with a club-type atmosphere in the bar. There is plenty of space outside for
dining or simply to sit and enjoy the yachts with the backdrop of the Old Custom House and the
glass-fronted Contship building across the water.
Adjacent to St Peter's Church in the mouth of St Peter's Street, on the important walking route from
the town centre to the Wet Dock, is Le Detour restaurant. Not quite on the Waterfront but worthy of
a mention for the excellent French cuisine.
Likewise Mortimer's is no longer on the quayside but a review of eating-houses hereabouts would
be incomplete without a recommendation for this superb fish restaurant. In the award-winning
converted sub-station Ken Ambler and his team should be congratulated for their vision in seeing
the potential of the location.
In the building which Mortimer's vacated is the Bistro on the Quay for excellent light lunches and
evening dining with an extensive wine list. Anthony and Kathy Brooks are providing a worthy
replacement with a completely different menu. Opposite, moored against the quay is 11 Punto
Brasserie, no longer exclusively Italian but the quality remains.
The smallest and most recent addition to quayside alfresco dining is the Continental Colours, Cafe,
open from 8 am for the essential morning coffee and breakfast snack. With a surprisingly varied
selection of lunchtime specials it tends to get busy and the tables outside come into their own. If
you prefer a pub lunch then the Lord Nelson, the Malt Kiln and the Steamboat all provide hungry
office workers with a bar snack. There are restaurants and a food pub on Cardinal Park and the
ubiquitous McDonald's is but a short walk away.
As extensive as this list is, there are two more restaurants planned for the Northern Quays. By the
time you read this, the Salthouse Harbour Hotel should have opened in the former John Good
warehouse building. To earn a four-star grade they will need a restaurant to match, but judging by
their previous efforts at the Marlborough Hotel this should soon be forthcoming.
The second is a little further away time-wise but equally exciting and will be the fulfilment of the
dreams of two of our members, Stuart and Gina Cooper. The Isaac Lord's complex has recently seen
its Listed status upgraded to, in places, Grade I and elsewhere Grade 2*, which is not the easiest
starting point for a restaurant conversion. Stuart has found an excellent conservation architect who
has solutions for stainless steel vent pipes and the Listed com machinery.
For this number of businesses to survive they need your custom mid-week as well as the custom of
visiting yachty types at the weekend, but you are spoilt for choice.
JOHN NORMAN, Vice-Chairman
McDonalds to the Rescue!
I suppose this has some connection with the heading at the top of the page, but it's really just a fill-
up! It's occurred to me that without McDonalds in Tavern Street we could easily have five mobile
phone shops in a row. It's only McDonalds which separates Vodafone and 4U on one side from
Orange and 02 on the other. Now we know who's got the means of paying these rents in one of the
most expensive parts of the town centre.
NPS
Snippets (1)
A great name revived
After reporting sadly in the October 2002 Newsletter that the name of Ransomes seemed to have
gone for ever, it's pleasing to note that Ransomes Jacobsen is the new name for the company's grass
maintenance equipment following the take-over of previous owners Textron.
A three-year plan
Ipswich Partnership launched its 3-year business plan in March. This broadly based plan addresses
the need for good transport and car parking as well as improving the town centre's attractiveness for
shoppers and retailers. They point out that the increase in the numbers of new flats close to the town
centre could help to attract more national retailers. It should be interesting to hear more when Paul
Clement, the head of the Partnership, talks to the Society next March.
Making a new home
Suffolk County Council's new headquarters in Russell Road will be called Endeavour House. Work
has been proceeding fixing the panels to the unfinished parts of the shell. The staff of approximately
1,000 should start moving in early next year. It should augur well that SCC's purchase of the
building originally intended for TXU received cross-party approval.
The year has gone quickly
The market on the Cornhill has been licensed to continue until at least September 2004. It has
functioned well since moving there in May 2002. IBC is considering the need to make extra space
available, probably down Princes Street and into Queen Street, for which an Act of Parliament
would be required. There is a waiting list of potential new traders.
Hotline for graffiti
IBC and Ipswich Partnership have set up a hotline (01473 433000) for members of the public to
report graffiti so that a specialist cleaning crew can move in quickly. We applaud this initiative.
Ipswich may be less affected by this blight than some other towns of comparable size but graffiti in
our town can still be dispiriting if left for long.
Taken to the cleaners
Ajax on the comer of St Nicholas Street and Friars Street has long been a useful shop for electrical
appliance repairs and accessories. But this characteristic old 17th century building (included in the
Society's Local List) was badly neglected. Good to see therefore that it has at last been repaired and
redecorated. A reminder below of the before and after appearances.
The Society's Surprise at AGM
The Methodist Church Hall in Black Horse Lane has already been greeted as a pleasant venue for
the Society's meetings. However there was some initial consternation as members began to arrive.
This was the first of our Annual General Meetings to be held there, events which have usually
concluded with a convivial glass of wine or soft drink. But the organisers were suddenly made
aware that wine should not be taken on to these premises: hence Jill Lambert's rapid drive to
Sainsburys to buy yet more gallons of soft drinks!
Our Chairman, Jack Chapman, opened the proceedings by welcoming people and introducing the
Mayor, Councillor Richard Risebrow. The Mayor, our President, conveyed the good wishes of the
Borough Council and said how much he had enjoyed attending the Society's Awards evening in
November.
Annual reports from the Chairman and Treasurer had been previously circulated in booklet form
with the April Newsletter, so there were few matters raised by members at the meeting, but the
following points are worthy of note:
Financial reserves: discussion as to whether the Society needed to retain £13,760 of unallocated
funds, but it was generally agreed that this was not unreasonable to cover eventualities.
Life membership: this new status had been taken up by (only) two members so far.
Abolition of annual membership cards: no problem, as long as new members get a receipt.
IBC's cultural strategy: concern expressed that this had gone quiet, although probably still alive.
Officers and Committee members retiring by totation were all re-elected - namely, John Norman
(Vice-Chairman), Ken Wilson (Treasurer)), Mike Cook, Tom Gondris and Neil Salmon.
The business part of the evening over, John Norman delivered an engrossing illustrated talk about
recent developments on the Ipswich Waterfront. Even those of us who try to keep up with all the
new schemes learned that we're not quite up to date!
Finally, on to Beryl Jary's excellent choice of snacks and those very refreshing soft drinks.
NEIL SALMON
The Navigator and the River
Several members of the Society joined a goodly number of people, including the press and
television, in support of the River Action Group on 14 May. The occasion was the unveiling of John
Atkin's corton steel 16 feet high sculpture, "The Navigator", commissioned by the River Action
Group.
The day had been wet but by 5 pm the sun was shining as we assembled on the river path of the
Gipping, looking in awe at the huge plastic-covered structure. We were also in sight of the Princes
Street bridge and Ranelagh Road, two of the vantage points from which "The Navigator" can be
viewed, albeit at a distance.
Tom Gondris, Chairman of the River Action Group, explained the history of the project, the
competition to choose the sculptor and the success in obtaining various grants so that the costs did
not fall on the Borough Council. An area had been cleared with some planting already in place for
the siting of this large sculpture representing Ipswich's industrial past. [The photograph on the
opposite page reminds us that it is also possible to see "The Navigator" juxtaposed with some
existing industrial premises, the Reavell Works of CompAir Reavell Ltd.]
Unfortunately, these proceedings were delayed by the collapse of our Chairman, Jack Chapman, but
we were heartened by the speed in which a paramedic and ambulance arrived, considering the
difficulty in negotiating a river path and the crew's care and attention in dealing with Jack's injuries.
Tom Gondris then performed the task of pulling a rope to release the plastic and reveal the imposing
"Navigator" to a round of applause. People gathered round to inspect the sculpture from all angles
and to speak to John Atkin himself.
A reception took place soon after at Christchurch Mansion where an exhibition of drawings
showing the preparations for the sculpture could be seen, and John Atkin carried on talking to the
many individuals who expressed interest.
JOYCE SALMON
The Future of Broomhill Pool
Function of the Pool
Sport as exercise is recognised as being ignored and even dismissed by some recent governments
but the major concern of Public Health doctors now is the rise in obesity, cardiovascular disease and
diabetes, particularly in the young. The basis of this huge problem for future generations is the
disparity between diet and exercise. Thus any facility that encourages exercise must be supported. It
should be utilised by water polo, scuba diving and life support classes as well as those training for
endurance swimming.
However this pool has an even more important use; it is used as a social meeting place by its main
users, the 12-16 group. The interaction in the open-air without drink or drugs throughout the long
summer holidays provides the largely social class C2 to E, multi-ethnic neighbourhood cohort with
a vital outlet for the energy and urges of their age group in a safe and controlled environment.
Finally there is a considerable group of adults who prefer the experience of swimming in an open-
air pool and swim seriously and frequently.
Popular support
The Friends of Broornhill Pool already have 15,000 signatures; this is a significant number for what
is largely a neighbourhood facility.
Conservation issues
The Pool was Listed Grade II only 18 months ago. As originally built, the architects' (Borough
Surveyor's) plans were not followed completely. Over the years major alterations have taken place,
most notably the demolition of the clock tower. Thus it is not a very original structure. But it is
important to note that the condition of a building is irrelevant in the decision that the DCMS in
conjunction with English Heritage would make concerning demolition. The Ipswich Conservation
Panel and The Ipswich Society have recently discussed the future of the pool and have supported its
continuing survival.
Structural condition
Unfortunately it was built on a slope down which it is very slowly but remorselessly sliding. This
has resulted in large and increasing cracks in various parts, particularly the pool box. Further, the
ferro-concrete of the period is now showing its characteristic rot due to rusting of the reinforcement
rods. Whilst the 1997 structural survey said that the major remedial work should be commenced in
2003, it did not state that the pool would be unsafe to use by then. However major work does need
to be done. Additional works to be done at the same time should be considered. These might include
heating (interestingly much of the original 1938 system remains in situ), improved catering facilities
and the question of changing rooms.
Capital
At least £2.5 m will be needed to produce a facility with say a twenty year life. Clearly we must
accept that Ipswich Borough Council has not this amount available for this sort of project. There are
however other avenues which must be explored. First and foremost is the Heritage Lottery Fund for
whom this project would fulfil many of their criteria. Further capital might be raised from charities
and from the community if the opportunity is allowed to arise.
Management
This is probably the most difficult question to solve. Firstly despite the enthusiasm and devotion of
the manager and his staff, it is part of the sports domain although it is agreed that its main function
is social. It needs a much more leisure industry-orientated entrepreneurial approach. The Council
could sell or lease it to either a Trust of which it would be a major part or it could offer it to the
leisure industry. For it to survive after rebuilding it will need a longer opening period in the year,
possibly all the year for some days in the week, longer opening hours in the season (workers can't
swim in the day) and social events with appropriate catering in the evening. Consideration should
be given to the abolition of the changing rooms altogether and the provision of a proper cafe. The
decisions as to future management would need to be made before the acquisition of capital.
Summary
None of these ideas are fantasies dreamed up by enthusiasts; there are many lidos working
successfully all over the UK. We and the Borough must not abandon this useful and much loved
part of the town's heritage for the want of trying hard to find some innovative solutions to its current
problems.
MIKE COOK
Somerset House
After being greeted by a smiling Mel Johnson we left Crown Street promptly to collect the
remainder of our party at Tesco's. We were introduced to our driver who told us that because of our
tight schedule there would be no "comfort stop" but that rudimentary toilet facilities could be made
available on request. He had a rather robust sense of humour! We moved off along the A 12 at a
comfortable speed with our good tour leader struggling down the aisle laden with a bag of one
pound coins offering to refund £3 per person as we would be unable to visit the Hermitage
Collection as planned.
During the journey, Mel, who had researched the background to the Gilbert Collection, told us that
Sir' Arthur Gilbert was born Arthur Bernstein in London in 1913 and on marriage took his wife's
maiden name of Gilbert. In 1949 they moved to California where he became a very successful
property developer and began his collection of works of art. At that time he also began a close
association with the Los Angeles County Museum of Art and had intended to leave his collection
there but was eventually informed that their real interest was in contemporary art. As a consequence
the collection is now housed with that of the Courtauld and Hermitage Collections in the restored
and refurbished Somerset House in the city of his birth.
My wife Barbara and I chose to visit first the Courtauld Galleries. The sequence of the works is
"broadly chronological" commencing with the 14th and through to the 20th centuries. A magnificent
collection from Botticelli to Kokoschka. We spent three hours viewing (not nearly enough time) and
then a break for lunch and on to the Gilbert Collection.
In the Collection were such memorable objects as gold snuff boxes, Italian mosaic portraits and
miniatures, the oldest golden ewer (c. 2500 BC) from Anatolia with a swastika motif worked on to
the base for good luck, and a magnificent pair of silver and silver gilt gates made in Kiev in the l8th
century symbolising the entrance to the Kingdom of Heaven. These were beautifully displayed and
illuminated with appropriate choral music playing softly in the background - perhaps a Russian or
Ukrainian mass.
We had little opportunity to give more that a casual glance to our grand surroundings at Somerset
House but the beauty of the E J Safra Fountain Court within the courtyard must have a mention. As
does the flamboyant Stamp Stair which led to the former Stamp Office - "From the ground floor
upwards the balustrades are decorative, whereas on the lower floors they are plain, reflecting the
higher status of those working on the upper floors”.
The coach is waiting and Met rather ominously counting heads. We leave promptly at 5.30 pm and
enjoy a comfortable journey home. An excellent day which we have enjoyed very much as a result
of the care and attention for our well-being displayed by Mel Johnson.
PHILIP LAY
Christchurch Park Restoration
Christchurch Park is the town's most prominent and best known piece of public amenity land. It lies
within one of Ipswich's principal Conservation Areas and possesses one of the most complete
histories of any of the parks in the town.
The Park's origins stretch back to the 12th century and it contains 14 Listed buildings and
structures, notably Christchurch Mansion (Grade I), an early 18th century ice house, an 11th century
Augustinian priory enclosure wall, entrance gates and lodges, shelters, fountains and memorials (all
Grade II Listed). The Park is of great arboricultural interest with a number of 350 year old "veteran"
beech, oak and sweet chestnut trees. The Mansion was gifted to the town by Felix Thornley
Cobbold, on the condition that "Ipswich Corporation" purchase the remainder of the estate. The
Park was opened to the public in 1895 as Ipswich's first official public park.
The Park is listed on the English Heritage Register of Historic Parks and Gardens as a Grade II park
and also provides the setting for Christchurch Mansion (Grade I Listed), one of the finest surviving
examples of Elizabethan architecture in England, housing the most important Gainsborough and
Constable collections outside London.
In March 2002 the Borough Council submitted an application to the Heritage Lottery Fund for
assistance in the restoration of the historic fabric of Christchurch Park. The project proposals were
originally presented in a "Restoration Plan" for the Park prepared in 1999 by Landscape Design
Associates (Peterborough). Last September the HLF Trustees awarded a stage one pass, which
means that the proposals can now be fully developed and progressed to stage two. The main
elements within the proposals that were part of the original submission had a total cost of
£4,288,780. At this stage the Council have been awarded a development grant of £130,500 to
produce the design work for all the proposals to the required standard and obtain all statutory
consents (planning permission and Listed building consents).
Currently. Landscape Design Associates are assisting the Council and the Project Co-Ordinator in
providing the design detail, reviewing and confirming all project costs, exploring the potential for
partnership funding, producing a 10 year management and maintenance plan in accordance with the
HLF guidance and confirm proposals for involvement of Friends, volunteers and the wider
community. The stage two submission must be presented to the Heritage Lottery Fund by
November to meet their timetable for consideration by the Trustees for their meeting in March
2004. Approval to start the project will be confirmed at this meeting if they feel all the prerequisites
have been satisfied by the Council in its submission.
The present author hopes to provide a more detailed picture of the proposals for the restoration
project in the next edition of this Newsletter. In the meantime any reader looking for a more detailed
picture should refer to the Borough Council's website or contact Shaun Taylor for further
information.
SHAUN TAYLOR, Project Co-Ordinator
Parks' Services Panel
The Parks' Panel has met three times during the past few months. In February Shaun Taylor,
Projects' Manager for the Heritage Lottery Fund proposals, gave a presentation on the restoration
and costings for Christchurch Park. An article by Shaun appears above in this Newsletter.
The second meeting followed a similar presentation for Holywells Park which will make a bid for
Lottery money probably early next year. This beautiful park is of particular interest because of its
medieval connections - the Bishops of Norwich are believed to have held land here from the 12th
century until the Reformation. The site of their residence was on the moated area which is now a
playground. As its name implies, Holywells was renowned for the quality of its water, falling from a
spring in a sequence of man-made ponds, inspiring Gainsborough's now celebrated painting
(acquired by the Borough and currently in the Gainsborough exhibition visiting Boston, USA).
These were the fresh water ponds which established Cobbold's brewing reputation! The Heritage
Lottery Fund has asked for more research into the park's history and for proposals for its future, and
will offer development money for this research.
In May, Panel members were taken on a walk around part of Christchurch Park to discuss proposals
for alterations and restoration as put forward in the Lottery bid. The imposing pineapple-pillared
entrance in Soane Street would be repaved and shrubs would be partly cleared to reveal the
diaperwork on the brick walls. The lawn would be reshaped to its original oval, with stone balls
around its perimeter. As we walked up to the Round Pond, certain proposals caused mild
controversy, such as the suggested removal of the scalloped edges around the pond - "How can
children feed the ducks?" Over decades, seedlings from mature trees have themselves grown
overlarge, thus causing root damage to walkways. Should these trees be removed or the footpaths
re-sited?
How many people know of the little horseshoe pond, obscured by undergrowth but once a feature of
the formal gardens? In the Lower Arboretum, seated on benches alongside the croquet lawn and
facing a wall of conifers, we envisaged a view over a cleared and replanted boulder-strewn rockery
to the island, set in a cleaned Wilderness Pond, and to the pine hill beyond. Would there be funds
for maintenance of this vision beyond the ten years allowed for in the Lottery funding? One can
only hope so.
PAT GONDRIS, Ipswich Society representative on the Panel
Street Scene Observer Needed
Our member, Adam Gordon, used to write an annual article called "Street Scene". When he gave up
doing it, the Newsletter lost the services of an architect with a keen eye for new developments and a
love of Ipswich. Isn't there a present member with similar interests who could contribute an annual
article? Your Editor would be delighted to hear from anyone who might help.
Ipswich Museums
Introducing Tim Heyburn, Society Chairman Jack Chapman referred back to the Action Group of
which the Society had been a member and which had recommended that a properly qualified person
should be appointed to head the Museum Services. By the end of Tim's talk I am sure that there was
no one in the room who doubted that he was the ideal person for the job.
Tim said that his three years in post had been very challenging ones. In response to the Council's
decision in 1999 that there was a need to reform the direction of the Museums service and to create
one more in line with the needs of local residents, he was developing a five-year action plan which
included a complete review of the displays in the High Street Museum.
He described the context in which his review was taking place with the Borough Council's
reorganisation, a plethora of strategies, the move towards regionalisation and the emphasis on "best
value". He told us of the performance indicators used, such as the number of visits/usages per 1,000
population, including the number of web-hits (170,000 in 2002). And he shared with us his concern
that indicators did not always measure the most important aspects; for instance the emphasis on the
number of pupils in booked school groups was at odds with his belief in the importance of life-long
teaming.
The Government's strategy for museums was based on a top-down rather than bottom-up approach.
Its report "Renaissance in the Regions" had divided the country into "hubs" with a core museum
and up to three satellites. Our regional hub consisted of Norwich and the Fitzwilliam Museum
Cambridge with Luton and Colchester as satellites. There was no direct provision for Local
Authority museums outside of the hub but the theory was that the hub's influence would benefit
museums such as Ipswich. The Eastern Hub is to be part of Phase 2 funding starting in 2005-2006.
However, there is an initial stream of funding to help with capacity building.
Tim emphasised the importance of Ipswich's museums. Founded in 1847, they contained nationally
and regionally important collections. During 2001-2002 there had been 32,107 visitors to the High
Street Museum and 68,231 to the Mansion (with 2% at the Museum and 8% at the Mansion coming
from overseas). Both were generally popular with all age groups but the Mansion was less popular
among the under-10s.
Having given us a vivid picture of the context in which the Museums had to operate and the
constraints on funding for the developments which were needed, Tim then went on to spell out
some specific challenges. These were: the need to engage the local community, to put Ipswich on
the map, to regain the confidence of regional and national bodies after the cuts of a few years ago
and, very importantly when museums are a discretionary service, to engage local political support
and joined-up thinking so that they are seen as an asset rather than as a burden.
He believed that museums made a vital contribution to quality of life by stimulating human
creativity, conveying an understanding of past and present, developing the individual and
encouraging sustainability. They contributed to regeneration by developing civic pride, stimulating
investment, creating tourist destinations and developing social cohesion.
Tim then listed the steps being taken to implement the development plan. In Stage One (with a
small grant) a dedicated display of the town's history, "The Ipswich Story", had been created in the Museum's gallery and an "Ipswich at War" exhibition is being planned for late September. He
emphasised the importance of Ipswich Museum and Galleries providing an inspiring experience
which fired the imagination. It was important to preserve, too, what was not directly relevant to
Ipswich since there was strength in the breadth of the collection. There was now only one expert
(the Keeper of Natural Sciences) and more Keepers were badly needed to stem the erosion of
expertise.
For Stage Two (2003) neither growth nor cuts were foreseen. He would concentrate on enhancing
community development and life-long teaming and building up a handling collection.
Under Stage Three, the collection (and access to it) would be reviewed. This would include the
High Street Exhibition Gallery, to which there was no access from the Museum and not enough staff
to open it. There was insufficient support of education at the Museum at present and he hoped to
develop the community learning side, with bids for a Community Learning Officer and Community
Studies Officer, possibly in partnership with The Ipswich Society and others. Lottery funding might
be sought for new posts, facilities improvement and re-display projects.
In response to members' questions, Tim discussed other aspects of his difficult task. Time had been
needed to restore stability and confidence after the cuts. While the invaluable contribution of
volunteers was now measured, there was a need for staff to back them up. Tim spent a lot of time
filling in forms and felt that he would like to spend more time "processing the service rather than
servicing the process”.
Tim's talk was comprehensive and reasoned, giving us a clear picture of the position of our Museum
and Mansion at present and the outlook for the next few years. His passionate commitment to the
Museums and to their potential is illustrated by his quote: "A mind once stretched by an idea never
regains its original dimension".
SHIRLEY SADLER
Not Full Steam Ahead Yet!
Those of us who travel by train - and we hope it's a substantial proportion of Ipswich Society
members - will be watching eagerly for further news of the new Greater Anglia franchise. Only one
company will operate trains in the whole area instead of the present three - two of which, Anglia
and First Great Eastern, run trains through Ipswich.
It was a surprise when the Strategic Rail Authority ruled Great Eastern out of the further bidding.
Many people regard their commuter-style trains to London as "cheap and cheerful". But if less
comfortable than Inter-City type trains, they do offer certain advantages. You can nearly always get
a seat to London because the trains start in Ipswich. And the Great Eastern Off-Peak Day Travelcard
not only allows all-zone travel in London on tube and buses but can also be used on any return train,
even in the rush hour. It is greatly to be hoped that the new franchise won't remove these advantages
for those of us in Ipswich.
The owners of Great Eastern, FirstGroup, have been invited by the SRA to bid for the Thames
franchise which will eventually be merged into a Greater Western franchise - much bigger than
Greater Anglia. And the FirstGroup has also been accepted as one of five bidders for the new
Northern franchise. Rumour has it that they conceded our franchise much against the wishes of
local management. An SRA spokesman said FirstGroup's application was "appallingly weak". In the
circumstances, Anglia Railways based in Ipswich and with a good record of customer care would
seem to be our best bet for the future. But whoever wins the franchise, the outcome is important for
the continuing regeneration of Ipswich which is, as the Great Eastern Travelcard recognises, within
the London area of travel for day visitors, as well as for commuters.
Ipswich Maritime Trust
The Trust is currently collaborating with the architect of EEDA's chosen developer for the
Cranfield's Mill site, Wharfside Regeneration, to secure a public display and storage area in the
scheme for the potentially large volume of maritime artefacts now being offered to the Trust for safe
keeping. Both EEDA and the Borough Council have expressed their support for the Trust's aims in
this respect, and it is understood that the designs for a planning application will be completed in the
early autumn.
In the meantime the Trust is seeking temporary storage accommodation for its artefacts, with the co-
operation of the Port owners, ABP. If any member of the Society would like to contact the Trust
about these or any other aspects of the Trust's work, they are welcome to get in touch with the
Chairman of the Trust's Committee, Des Pawson, on 01473 690090.
STUART GRIMWADE
Snippets (2)
On the buses
Ipswich Corporation started running the town's tram network in 1903. A specially gold painted bus
has been in service for some months commemorating the centenary. The main celebration will be
held on Sunday, 13 July - an open day on Ipswich Town's practice pitch just across the road from
the Constantine Road bus depot. Ipswich Buses don't rest on their laurels however. That depot will
close next year and the site will become part of a big redevelopment area for houses and offices as
part of Ipswich Village. A new bus depot will be built on the former Harris bacon factory at
Hadleigh Road industrial estate.
New steel for the law
It's not a peculiar obsession with big steel frames which has led the Newsletter to feature so many in
recent issues. There really are a lot of new buildings going up. Whole areas of the town wouldn't be
recognisable to someone returning after a few years of absence. Many new buildings are fairly
ordinary. The new Crown Court could well be more striking when finished. It's a 4-storey
construction which will include five courts, waiting rooms, coffee bars, etc. It looks so big that one
hopes it's not in anticipation of large increases in numbers of criminals!
New brochures to catch the eye
The Society's colourful new brochure was introduced in April. It is to attract the attention of
possible new members and make the Society better known in the town. So in some ways it's not
relevant to you, existing members. However, if you'd like some to show to friends, members of the
Committee would be pleased to supply you. The Borough Council for its part has produced a
particularly good new version of their annual "Ipswich & District" brochure with little articles about
"My Ipswich" by different local people. Your Committee took the unusual step of writing to James
Hehir, IBCs Chief Executive, to congratulate the Borough's Design and Communications Unit for
the quality of their work.
Grassing it over
It's good to see a planning application in for St Nicholas churchyard. In fact, it's part of the
application to convert the church into the Diocesan resource centre, "including landscaping of
northern churchyard". If approved, the churchyard will lose the concrete paving which has been an
attraction for skateboarders who have damaged tombstones and created rubbish and noise. Let's
hope they will use the new facilities provided at the Stoke Bridge skateboard park.
Thanks to the Council for spending our money
No, that's not sarcastic! It's a welcome for the repairs to the Town Hall. The scaffolding is not
exactly a tourist attraction for the summer months but the work needed doing urgently. Those who
took part in IBC's Scrutiny Committee consultations heard alarming reports on the state of the
building - the roof and the masonry. Ad hoc repairs have been made over recent years but cost
cutting had prevented a continuing maintenance regime. Half a million pounds has been allocated in
each of the next four years for essential repairs and improvements to the Town Hall and Com
Exchange. They may not be the most celebrated buildings in town but because of their location and
history they are the most important, and can't be neglected if there's any civic pride!
Gatehouse again
Don't forget that Pykenham's Gatehouse will be open on the first Saturday of the month, i.e. 2
August, 6 September, 4 October, I November. The hours of opening 10.30 am till noon.
Good food in The Stables
The Stables Restaurant in the restored old stable block in Chantry Park has been warmly
commended by members. It makes a most pleasant stopping-off place when exploring Chantry
Park, the only one of our parks with such a facility. It is open Tuesdays to Sundays from 10am to
5pm and offers excellent value-for-money fare - morning coffee, lunches and afternoon teas.
The Station to the Town Centre
One of our members, Philip Lay, has drawn attention to a recurring complaint - that the pedestrian
approach to the town centre from the railway station is far from ideal. In many ways it is better than
equivalent journeys in some other towns, and there are some good and some very good buildings on
the way. But first impressions to a newcomer might be the broken down railings on the corner of
Ranelagh Road and Princes Street. The two busy streams of traffic crossing Princes Street are not too difficult to negotiate thanks to pedestrian-controlled traffic lights. But then comes the major
hazard of the Civic Drive/Franciscan Way underpass system.
The condition of this is rather better than it was because the Borough Council has made efforts to
clean and maintain it but tiled surfaces, railings and steps are fairly easily damaged. However, if
you've kept on the right hand side of Princes Street, you can avoid the underpasses but you end up
in Cromwell Square. On the other side of Princes Street and making directly for the Cornhill you
must use the underpass or dodge between the traffic coming down or into Civic Drive.
Many pedestrians hate such subways, especially after dark. It is interesting to see that the
consultants of Urban Initiatives in their current work on a master plan for the town's development
have apparently understood this whole problem. One of their suggested solutions, a new pedestrian
route towards Cardinal Park and the Waterfront, might be welcome, although it wouldn't fill the
need for a better direct route to the Cornhill.
Christchurch Mansion Explored
On 19 March, Bob Markham led a small group of members on a merry dance through the main
ways and by-ways of the Mansion. This was a different view of a house which many participants
thought they knew well, but this was history-as-you-go, attention to many small details and viewing
remote attics.
Members heard about Queen Mary's being entertained to tea in the Great Hall in 1938 with tables
and chairs provided by Green and Hatfield and tea given by Waterloo House. The kitchen and
scullery were used for cooking lessons with menus carefully graded to suit three different social
classes. The tour included being able to stand on a place of honour - the porch over the front door.
In every way, Bob was an ideal guide for this great Ipswich asset.
Letters to the Editor
A THEATRE IN IPSWICH RECALLED
from Vera Underwood
I have been reading The Ipswich Society Newsletter of this April and the article on the history of
theatre in Ipswich has evoked a memory of a theatre which is not mentioned. No, I'm not talking
through my hat as they might say because the recollection I have was of such an important event in
the life of a child of 8 or 9. I do recall some events of World War I but this play I think was probably
after the war as theatres would not be putting on shows during the war. I was so delighted when my
parents took me to see the famous London actress Sybil Thorndyke in St Joan at the Lyceum
Theatre in Carr Street which stood near to the East Anglian Daily Times building with its
impressive facade. I hope there is somebody else living locally who can also remember this theatre.
Licensing Bill: Our Concerns
The Civic Trust has expressed grave concern about aspects of the Licensing Bill currently working
its way through Parliament. The Trust has asked affiliated societies to contact the Government to
make known their concerns, too, if they have any. The Ipswich Society has written to the Minister
responsible, Kim Howells, with copies to our two MPs and others.
The key section of our letter is as follows:
"Pubs and clubs may create noise and disturbance into the early morning. In the fulness of time we
accept that the abolition of 'licensing hours' may well result in an improvement, in that the English
predilection for 'vertical drinking' may well be a consequence of having a deadline of Iclosing time'.
However, we fear that in the short and perhaps medium term, unlimited hours may well exacerbate
the problem of noise and disturbance ... The purpose of this letter is to alert you to our concerns,
particularly about late night drinking as opposed to evening drinking and to seek assurances that full
weight will be given to the environmental impact on our towns.”
Mr Howells replied that transferring licensing powers from the magistrates to local authorities
would go along with powers to consider the cumulative affect of awarding licences in a given area,
and he took heart from police support for the abolition of traditional closing times. There does seem
to be some recognition that the English have a drink problem! But the Society still wonders whether
this is the right way to deal with it.
[Editor: Since then, it has become apparent that in Ireland their liberalised licensing laws have
failed to effect a change from a pub culture to a more continental-style cafe and bar culture. On the
contrary, alcohol consumption has increased by nearly 50% over the past decade. The Irish
Government is hastening to reverse this trend - nobody under 18 will be allowed in any bar after 8
pm, under 21s will be required to carry ID and closing times are to be brought forward!]
A New History of Ipswich School
"A Famous Ancient Seed-Plot of Learning
A History of Ipswich School"
by John Blatchly, published by Ipswich School 2003
The history of Ipswich School is in many ways the history of organised education in Ipswich
because the School has been at the centre of public life in the town for centuries. To readers today it
is immediately helpful to learn that the School has had so many different names which convey this
central public role: names such as The Grammar School of Ipswich, The Free School of Ipswich,
King Henry VIII School, Queen Elizabeth's Grammar School and Ipswich Grammar School. It was
only in 1945 that the School became fully independent.
All who know John Blatchly will also know that this book is a labour of love for a Headmaster who
led and served the School from 1972 to 1993. But the emphasis should be on "love", for there is
nothing laboured about the book. Indeed its other characteristics are wit and wisdom: as always, the
author's humour and scholarship go hand in hand.
We read about brave, even heroic headmasters - the most outstanding being James Leman who
defended the School's endowments from the town corporation for 14 years (1608-1622) and whose
petition to Parliament included the words John Blatchly has used as his book title. But we are also
taken behind the desk to learn about misdemeanours, and much else. For members of The Ipswich
Society there is a wealth of interest in the various locations and buildings which the School has
occupied since the late 15th century. But for everybody there is so much of human life in this story.
Copies of this 400 page substantial and fully illustrated hardback cost £17.50 and can be obtained
from The Headmaster's Secretary, Ipswich School, 25 Henley Road, Ipswich, IP1 2SQ.
Another Day in Norwich
The English Historic Towns Forum is a group set up by English Heritage and the Civic Trust to
promote an active interest in the economic and aesthetic improvement of the core of English towns.
This year they have organised some ten all-day meetings around England, the morning consisting of
lectures on local issues from local architects and the afternoon devoted to a tour of the town/city.
Thanks to the Society I was able to attend the Norwich meeting in mid-March. After an introduction
by the Regional Director of English Heritage we were led through "Buildings in Context" by the
author, Francis Golding, a guide to regenerating urban areas by looking at fifteen successful
projects. (The Society has a copy.) The first case study was of Juniper House, Kings Lynn. The brief
written by the Council was for offices, preferably naturally heated and ventilated, residential
accommodation and a public garden next to a Grade I church and a Listed cottage on a central site.
Jeremy Stacey has designed a scheme which fulfils these requirements and complements its
surroundings. (He pointed out that PFI produced poor and expensive buildings.)
We next looked at the Forum in central Norwich. (Lucky old them to have had their library burnt
down and doubled the insurance money from the Millennium Fund!) Michael Taylor, a partner of
Michael Hopkins, pointed out the difficulties in persuading the librarians that it was safe to have an
open library within a building that has to pay its way. Thus much floor space is given over to the
food industry, to a Norwich tourist information shop and to the excellent widescreen film on the
history of the city in the undercroft. The BBC is transferring there soon. All this makes for good
mix of users of the Forum. Michael Taylor was a delightful and unassuming guide to his building.
Hopefully even more will come when the Chapelfields (Rowntree) site is completed (being
demolished at the time of the visit).
The Riverside site has caused much heartache. Mostly owned by Railtrack and Asda, the
reclamation of the land was expensive so that it was difficult for the planners to gain much Section
106 development. Eventually they now have a retail park with the usual chains, of which the largest
and most successful in architectural terms is ironically a Morrison's. A large residential development
connected by two exciting footbridges across the Wensum was felt by our group to be banal and
very dense. The replacement swimming pool has just been opened on an adjacent site.
Finally we returned to the City Hall through the King Street rejuvenation area where not only
sympathetic restoration but also an exciting modern building is leading to a thriving new quarter.
Live/work units, expensive houses and affordable flats are enlivening this rundown part. As usual
pedestrianisation is playing a major part.
I would recommend a visit but I'm afraid you won't have the expert guides I did - Michael Taylor
and for the later part the Head of Development Control for Norwich City Council. My thanks to
them and the EHTF and the Society for such a stimulating day out.
MIKE COOK
Suffolk Photographic Survey
Firstly, a little information about the Suffolk Local History Council (SLHC) of which The Ipswich
Society is a member and is represented on its Executive Committee. The SLHC is the umbrella
organisation which shelters a wide range of local societies - historical, archaeological, transport,
museums - for whom the Council disseminates information on their interests through its Newsletter,
its Calendar of Events and its journal The Suffolk Review. Individuals as well as societies can
become members and receive all these publications. Once a year it organises a weekend school at
Belstead House. The work of present-day recorders is another aspect of the Council's umbrella
activity - what is recorded today becomes the history of tomorrow! SLHC also has a very
informative website: www.suffolklocalhistorycouncil.org.uk
And so to the project! Do you want to help? An opportunity for Ipswich Society members to be
involved! Now read on….
The Suffolk Photographic Survey - well over 20,000 items and still growing - owes its existence to
the work of the SLHC in the early 1950s, in encouraging people to give or loan early photographs
to form a pictorial record of Suffolk life in both town and country. Through the dedicated work of
organiser/collector Bob Pratt, under the aegis of the SLHC, the collection had grown to such an
extent that by 1976 it was transferred into the care of the Suffolk Record Office and housed at the
Ipswich branch, Gatacre Road, where it can be consulted through the use of the accompanying card
index. And it is the upgrading of this card index on to a computer database that forms the SLHC's
50th anniversary project and for which volunteers are sought.
There are two sides to the work, and volunteers can be involved in both or either. Firstly, each
photograph has to be viewed, described and categorised. When this has been done the results are fed
into the Record Office database. When completed it will be possible, using any descriptive words
you wish, to search for relevant photographs on a much wider and detailed basis than the present
card index offers.
Volunteers meet once a week on Thursday mornings at the Ipswich branch of the Record Office for
about two and a half hours. It is not necessary to attend every week, but it would be an advantage to
attend as regularly as possible, and certainly two or three weeks running at the beginning to get used
to the system, and when individual one-to-one tuition will be given.
If any member would like to help, please contact the SLHC Hon Secretary, Jonathan Abson on
(01473) 725402.
RUTH SERJEANT, The Ipswich Society Representative, SLHC
Heritage Open Days
13-14 September 2003
The Society is again co-ordinating this annual event for the Civic Trust. We plan to publish our
information leaflet early in August. As usual it will be available from the Tourist Information
Centre, the Central Library, Civic Centre, the Corn Exchange and a number of other outlets. New
this year will be the Museum Street Methodist Church. Heritage Open Days enable the public to
view a number of properties not otherwise accessible to the public.
Belton House, Grantham
Forty-eight members of the Society left for the visit to Belton House on 26 April. On arrival, we
were impressed to see a "welcome" notice board with the Society's name on it at our setting down
place. After a short break we assembled in the magnificent Marble Hall, the principal room of the
south side of the house, where a member of staff gave us a brief history of the house and family. We
were then free to took over the house and extensive parkland at our leisure.
Belton House has been the home of the Brownlow family for over 300 years. It was designed by the
gentleman architect William Winde and built between 1685 and 1688 for "Young" Sir John
Brownlow. Built on an H-plan it has a hipped roof with dormer windows and an elegant cupola.
Between projecting wings a broad flight of steps leads up to the main doorway, above which is a
pediment with the Brownlow coat of arms. About 1776 the architect James Wyatt altered the house
and in 1811 his nephew Sir Jeffry Wyatville built the orangery.
The stunning interior contains exceptionally fine plasterwork and woodcarving (some attributed to
Grinling Gibbons) and in every room there are important collections of paintings, furniture, rare
porcelain and silverware. The layout of the rooms presents an easy progression throughout the
house for the visitor. Each room has its own outstanding features. For example, the black and white
squared marble floor gives its name to the Marble Hall. The Saloon, a formal reception room,
contains a beautiful Aubusson carpet commissioned by the 1st Earl and the Tyrconnel Room has a
painted floor incorporating the Brownlow greyhound crest and coat of arms.
The Chapel, Chapel Drawing Room and Chapel Gallery are next in the progression through the
house. The Gallery follows an arrangement common from the end of the Middle Aoes, whereby the
family "closet", perhaps the most private part of all the rooms in the house, opened on to the Chapel
at first-floor level. Recent renovation indicates that the Chapel Drawing Room contains one of the
few surviving 17th century interiors at Belton.
The Staircase Hall leading to the upper floor and placed off-centre is the only structural feature to
break the overall symmetry of the house. It formed part of the ceremonial route for important
visitors, linking the Marble Hall to the Great Dining Room (now the Library) on the floor above.
On the upper floor the Yellow Bedroom has another of Wyatt's surviving interiors. The decoration
of the Chinese Bedroom dates from about 1840, although the wallpaper is 18th century. The Queen's Bedroom takes its name from Queen Adelaide, widow of William IV, for whose visit in
1841 it was redecorated.
The Windsor Bedroom is named in honour of Belton's association with the Duke of Windsor who
was a close friend of the 6th Lord Brownlow. Lord Brownlow was appointed Lord-in-Waiting to the
King when Edward succeeded to the throne. It was Lord Brownlow who escorted Wallis Simpson to
Cannes during the Abdication Crisis. Whilst a cadet at nearby RAF Cranwell the present Prince of
Wales was the most frequent visitor to use the room in recent times.
As with many country houses of the period Belton required an appropriately elaborate setting of
gardens and parkland. "Young" Sir John Brownlow surrounded his new home with a highly formal
scheme of parterres and walks, which now includes Italian and Dutch gardens and an Orangery. The
l8th century sundial in the Italian Garden achieved fame as the "Moondial" in the BBC television
series adapted from the children's book of the same title by Helen Cresswell. The hedge maze was
dug up during the Second World War but is now being reconstructed according to drawings found in
the library. There is also a lakeside walk and Swiss-style boathouse. Within easy walking distance
of the house is the church of SS Peter and Paul, which contains a remarkable group of monuments
to the Brownlow family.
All too soon it was time for us to board the coach for our return Journey after a very happy and
interesting day. We must thank June Peck for her excellent organisation of this outing.
AVRIL FARAHAR
Ipswich Archaeological Trust
The Ipswich Archaeological Trust was formed in October 1982 to inform the people of Ipswich
about, and involve them in, archaeological work being undertaken in the town and surrounding
area.
The archaeological deposits which underlie Ipswich town centre are of international importance.
Excavations carried out since 1974 demonstrate that Ipswich is one of the earliest English towns
and one of the first in north-west Europe. The town was probably founded by the East Anglian
Kings buried at the famous Sutton Hoo cemetery in the early 7th century. The archaeology of
Ipswich provides a unique opportunity to understand the early development of our present-day
urban society.
The Trust's activities depend partly on what is happening in archaeological exploration at the time
but they comprise:
• lectures on archaeology in general, work in the town and elsewhere
• newsletters giving up-to-date information about sites being excavated, finds and activities
• exhibitions about the archaeology of Ipswich
• walk and talk activities covering the general history of Ipswich
• visits to excavations and sites in the town and elsewhere.
Any Ipswich Society members interested in joining this "sister" society should contact the Ipswich
Archaeological Trust's Membership Secretary: Mrs Eileen Ward, Springcroft Cottage, Whight's
Corner, Washbrook, Ipswich, IP8 3LB.
Subscriptions are £2.00 for individual membership, £3.00 for family membership, £l.00 for senior
citizens.